A week ago the V70 stalled and died on my wife. NOT a good thing!

Found that the plastic nipple that controls the flapper for the pre-heat hose hot air had broken off and was most likely pulling nothing but hot engine air into the MAF and throttle body.

Repaired that, but stalling and stumbling persisted.

Did a little research on the web, forum, and with my mechanic.

Unhooked MAF and car seemed to run ok with out it attached so at first I assumed bad MAF. I also removed throttle body and cleaned it out as it was nasty inside.

Once done, I started it up and it died. I unhooked the MAF and it took a few tries but it started up and ran.

This morning I drove it and my wife drove it and it stalled as well for both of us.

So which component is bad, MAF, throttle body or both? If it is the throttle body, is it covered by the recall that replaced for FREE all the ETM's for 1999 to 2002 up to 10 years after purchase? My car is a 1998, but is closer to 1999 as it was built in April of 1998 so near the end of the 1998 year run.

If it is not covered, just so I get this right, I need to purchase a new ETM, roughly $700 from FCP and then still go to the dealership for a software upgrade. Is this correct.

Please advise as I need to get this car fixed and back on the road ASAP.

Thanks,

Matt

If the MAF was cooked by the heated air, that is a possibility. But, your check engine light should be on.

You have a 1998 with electronic throttle? If that is dying, there should also be a code for that and the CEL on.

Get a code reader or borrow one from an autoparts store and find all the stored codes.
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My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic

Klaus,

Just got back from driving the car since the initial post and its horrible.

The CEL is on, but believe its been on since I disconnected and have not reconnected the MAF.

The code number is P0102 which is indicative of the MAF. No other code has been thrown and yes I believe the ETM. How do I verify to be sure?

Thanks,

Matt

If the MAF is failing, it should throw a code for that. Same for the ETM. Yes, you can check the MAF by unplugging it, but only at idle. The engine will not run above idle with out knowing the air/fuel ratio which is what the MAF supplies.

A cooked MAF will show your symptoms and if the MAF readings are within bounds it will not throw a code. If the MAF readings are too low when you give it more gas, you will wind up flooding the spark plugs.

Your ETM should be a yellow label by now, the whites were terrible. Even the whites will throw a code, usually throttle position sensor.

Because of the pre heat vent failing, I would gravitate towards a bad MAF and not a bad ETM. Wire the preheat valve so that it is not used, it is not needed in your climate.
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My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic

MAF it is. I'll order on Monday and have it up and running by next weekend.

As for the ETM, it is a white sticker, NOT a yellow one. Any thoughts on how fortunate I might be in getting it replaced for FREE under the recall?

Regards,

Matt

Much too late for the ETM, but Xemodex.com is better than a dealer.
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My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic