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Well here i am, the saga continues...
So a month ago, i did a compression test, turns out that i had bent valves, the tensioner was bad... So I finally got a rebuilt cyclinder head from Clearwater, put it on. set the VVT on the exhaust (I'm 99% sure it is set properly)... I even put bran new IPD HD coil packs with bran new Volvo plugs gapped to .028... I changed the oil, new Air & Cabin filters...
She won't fire! Engine turns over but does not fire, it doesn't even stumble. I checked all my connections, they look good. I just did another compression test and everything looks good.
No codes are found.
I guess i need to start at the basics, Air, fire & fuel...
where does the coil packs pluse come from? how about the injector pluse
Any and all help would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks again!
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Coil packs get their juice from the computer and the cam position sensor, I hope that was put on correctly and the wire connector is solid. If the VVT is not connected properly, that will not produce a no start.
If you want to check for a spark, remove the coil and plug, put the plug back into the bottom of the coil, ground the end of the plug and hit the starter. A coil will kill itself if not grounded.
Last time I looked, the injector relay was on the fan shroud. 1999??
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Okay it's to dark for me to do anything else today... So this is where i am at.
All the grounds on the camshaft cover are good, the fuses are good. I got a Fuel injector pluse light, of course it plused once then blew the bulb, (WTF) that means i don't know, But it must have power right?. :/
I ohmed the VVT exhaust camshaft sensor and it read 4.1 (which i think sounds correct)I still haven't figured out how to test the camshaft position sensor on the end of the exhaust cam.
So then i got frustrated and finished the front brake job I was also planning to do... Then had another beer
Klause I know you said you must ground the coil when testing for spark. Do you ground it at the bolt hole for the coil pack? and then of course ground the spark plug as well? correct?
SO tomorrow i'm going to test for spark... then pull the engine mount and see what's up with the camshaft position sensor & might even pull the crank position sensor and see if i muffed something up there, even tho i didn't remove it before. I never unplugged either sensor but i did trace them back and they seemed to be plugged in okay...
At least the brakes are done... Makes me feel like i acomplished something.
Thanks again
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The coil doesn't have a ground, it uses the spark plug as one. The plug itself must be grounded before you hit the starter.
The crank position sensor should be just fine. The cam position sensor needed to be removed to get the cams off the head. It is possible that it was put on upside down, if the connector is good.
What I tried to say before, the VVT will not keep the engine from starting. If it is set wrong, then you will not be able to accellerate.
Get some rest...
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Well I grounded the spark plug and i got spark! Talk about puzzeled... Then i went back looking for fuel problem, so i did jump the fuel pump relay & that didn't do anything. I swear i don't hear the fuel pump but there is fuel at the rail (don't have a pressure fuel guage to check that)but i push the check valve tip in and gas comes squirting out...
I pulled off the top engine mount, took off the camshaft position sensor... It was a little dirty inside the housing but i didn't see anything really wrong with it. I wish there was a way i could test it, I never removed the actual sensor from the housing before, until tonight.
So i guess in the morning if the weather is up to it. I'll check my timing marks since the back end is visible. Might pull the fuel rail and see if i'm getting the squirt (LOL) i need from the injectors.
I don't know whatelse i could be missing? I mean i got fire, no vacuum leaks, seems to be pressure at the fuel rail? I never checked the knock sensor or the crank position sensor & i Beleive you said there was an Injector sensor on the radiator support (can't find it?
This been quite an experance, I got two more days till i head back to work. If i can't figure this out by then, This thing is off to a volvo tech. I'm going to stick to my day job for awhile.
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If yours was a 1998, I would have said to check the wires at the distributer, but you don't have one of those. There are 2 relays on the fan shroud, one is for the fan and the other is the injector. Neither relay tends to fail, but you did have them unplugged, possibly.
If the injectors are working, then the plugs should be slightly wet.
But the fuel system is run by the ECM, except for the fuel pump relay. If you pull the relay, jumper 15 and 87 with a good wire and the pump should run when ever the key is in pos II and III.
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I never unpluged the Injector relay. I belive the injectors are working because i do smell gas.
well when i started checking the timing marks this morning. I noticed the exhaust cam (on the back end didn't align up)but the cam gear was on the money. Is that normal? I could have swore, even after i preloaded the exhaust VVT orignally that the rear of the cams were aligned up opposite of the centerline.
Maybe i'm just over thinking it or something...
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When checking timing marks with a VVT, you need to go 90 degrees past the top mark and go back to the top to relieve pressure on the VVT cam.
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I think i figured out what i have been doing wrong. I preloaded the VVT cam.. It won't go back into place because i maxed out the VVT on the inital timing mark.
Now i have to figure out how to reset this...
Klause I owe you a beer, if you are ever in my neck of the woods
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I could have swore i did that. So i just went back and checked again... Two full rotations, then another 1/4 and back a 1/4 to where it aligns up again... The alignment marks on the front of the cams are right & the crank shaft... But the rear of the exhaust cam is off? is that right?
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No. The rear of the cams should make a straight line with each other. How much are you off? It can't be a lot otherwise you would get interference. One or two notches in the cam gear should at least get you fired up and a CEL.
Is the CPS upside down?
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Well KlausC! I got her to run for a few seconds then i shut her down...
My CVVT threw off my whole timing. Thank goodness i don't think i hurt anything, in the process... besides my noodle
the instructions i have to do this, to set the CVVT are wrong an that was the reason why the rear of my exhaust cam was off. I rotated the CVVT clockwise till it stopped and placed the belt on & tightened everything down. When i did that and then removed the camshaft lock tool, my exhaust cam would snap forward about an 1/8th of a turn. but my marks of the fron of the exhaust camshaft would be correct but you could see that on the rear of the camshaft it had turned.
anyrate a few things i noticed after i got it set to run. This time i only rotated the exhaust camshaft over one belt tooth. But when I rotated the crank 2 & 1/4 times, then back a 1/4 turn it seems the tensioner didn't snap back to the correct tempiture (between the goal posts). 2ndly it looks like there was a lot of slop between the crank and the idler pully and the crank was a 1/8 inch off from being dead on. Or maybe it just gets funky cause you turn the motor counter clockwise like that...
anyways i need to figure out now what the correct settings are for this CVVT thing. I wonder if i streched the new belt or maybe i messed up the new tensioner.
maybe i need to start another thread on this.
But thanks for all the help KlausC. I can't beleive my directions were bad.
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That is the good news. Try taking a look at this thread, it starts about 5 pages down. This is for a dual system VVT but the principles are the same.
If the engine will idle nicely and then go down the road without a glitch, you are in reasonable shape. But, read the thread anyway:
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/159704-lets-talk-cam-seals-and-how-to-on-a-dual-vvt-5-cyl/
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Thanks for the link!
So basicly you just need to get the belt tight as hell. Little if any preload on the CVVT (no one tooth measurement), so you don't actually move the cam at all (checking the rear of the cams stay perfect to the centerline). try to get it centered enough on the sprocket gear so the adjustable gear (three 8 mm bolts) is not maxed out to either side. That sum it up?
Thanks for all the help KlausC! If that above all it is, I'll get this knocked out tomorrow. And I'll let you know how it runs. I'm calling it a victory for today.. Thanks again!
Matt
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Wooohoooo Got it together & she fired right up. 70 miles later, still no codes! Thanks KlausC for the help!
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No i don't think the CPS was upside down. I think i just messed up the inital timing. I don't think i hurt anything because I could always turn everything freely.
I have to figure out this one notch thing setting up the VVT i got in my directions.
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"Coil packs get their juice from the computer and the cam position sensor, I hope that was put on correctly and the wire connector is solid. If the VVT is not connected properly, that will not produce a no start."
You mean that will produce a no start?
I'm 99% sure the VVT was put on properly. I even broke down and bought the cam tools to do this. It took 4 hands but i did not let off the tension of the VVT when i put on the belt and tighened the sprocket...
Is there a correct Ohm reading i should look for on the Cam position sensor?
Anyways I'm going to recheck everything today and I'll let you know what i come up with.
Thanks again Klaus
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