This morning I opened up the battery box on the V70-another puzzle. I wonder, do you suppose that Volvo doesn't want us to service our own cars?
Seriously, the box is better thought out than the one on the Mini, and the plastic clips did not break the first time I opened the box. That must be a good sign. My question is, since the positive cable is thoughtfully laid out to block access to three of the cells, how much agony am I going to create for myself when I unhook the cable to service the battery?
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Camel Jockey

Define 'service the battery' please. If it is just to recharge it with a trickle charger, then use the engine compartment hook up. If you are contemplating replacing the battery, then there is a special procedure to supply juice to the electrical system(computers) before you disconnect the battery.

All I'm trying to do right now is add water to the cells and clean the terminals. The cables and connectors block access to three cells. The positive cable seems to have to be unclamped and pulled off to get the cell caps off. Also there is some corrosion on the negative terminal. Needs to be pulled off and cleaned. I guess I should look into the special procedure to supply the electrics while the battery is disconnected.
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Camel Jockey

I always wondered if one of my large 9V batteries from a lantern would last long enough to do the job. I just don't trust trickle chargers as I am concerned if there is no feed back from the battery, how much juice it will supply.

Klaus,

I have heard of the 9V smoke detector type batteries being used for the purpose, and have heard of them being wired to a cigarette lighter plug to do the feeding. But, at least on my 99 V70, I just checked and the lighter does not work unless the key is in the acc position. If full voltage was a concern, I suppose you could add a couple 1.5 volt penlight batteries in series to the mix.

It is probably worth trying sometime when you know the only thing you stand to loose is the radio code.

Charley

So jumpers from a 12 volt source, another battery perhaps, are the answer. They sure don't make it easy...
Kentucky, my garage? I howl with laughter.
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Camel Jockey

Your garage? Yes, I wondered about that after I typed it, but I was too lazy to bother changing it.

Charley

Camel Jockey,

When I replaced the battery in my 99 V70, I had an extra battery and didn't want to loose any codes. All I did was use jumper cables. I attached the negative to one of the ground lines between the engine and chassis, and connected positive to the pos cable just as if I were jump starting. It might be easier to use a small wire connected to the positive cable and clip that wire into the jumpers.

I think someone mentioned using the cigarette lighter to feed power. If that is going to work, I think it means that the lighter would have to be wired to work when the car is turned off. I have never checked that.

However, it sounds like Klaus is talking about some special process, so maybe you should wait for his response before heading out to the garage.

Charley

I am planning on connecting the terminal to a battery jumper power supply and then -

CAREFULLY disconnecting the terminal, wrapping it in a towel and servicing the battery -

then CAREFULLY reconnecting it.

There is a lot of plastic around, so I think that I will get away with it.

So. Jumper cables are bulky and will be awkward to use. Is the current draw low enough to use a lighter wire do you suppose? 12 or 14 gauge perhaps with aligator clips?
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Camel Jockey

If you're asking about hooking up another 12v voltage source (charger, spare battery, etc.) in parallel to the car's battery so you can remove its positive cable without losing your car's memories (e.g., radio, ECU, OBD-II check light, etc.)...

Then Yes, you can use a light wire, 14 or even 16 ga. The background current for these demands, while the car is off, is only in the range of tens of milliamps (e.g., 0.050 amps), and such light wire offers negligible resistance (i.e., voltage drop) at that tiny current.

I know that you know to be sure to shut off the ignition switch, but also be absolutely sure that no compartment lights are on (e.g., the dome light, because you left a door open; or you're leaving an under-hood or trunk light on (if you have them) because the hood or hatch is up or open! Even a single bulb may draw too much current for the lightest wire.