At about 10 minutes or so of driving (and thereafter), it often dies whether rolling or stopped. If rolling, it starts right up again on its own, so I only feel a slight dip in power. Happens at any speed.

When it dies while the car is stopped (such as at a stop light), I can most often start it right up again, but has been taking longer (5-10 seconds) to start on the last couple of short drives.

In July of 2012 the fuel pump died and I replaced it with the O'Reilly cheap option and DID NOT replace the filter at the same time.

Recently I replaced both the filter and fuel relay. Neither made any difference with regards to the above mentioned stalling condition.

Aside from this issue, the car runs beautifully. No lighting, starting or accessory issues so I'm reluctant to say starter switch.

Any help would be immensely appreciated.

Norman




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Voluto ergo sum

My 850R is experiencing the same kind of problem. Mechanic replaced both relays and the thing ran fine for 2 days then stalled again with an immediate no prob restart.
How did you cure your stall problem?

Was any work done just before this started stalling?
Maybe a ground wire is loose where bolted on or has a loose wire to the crimp lug
connection. Some grounds get loose and your injectors wont run. The ground on the intake manifold being the first one to check, since it's intermittent you might wiggle the wire while in the driveway idling to see if it croaks the engine.
These faults are sometimes hard to find.

You did check for codes?

I'd start a new thread...

Bill

Thank you Bill. No work had been done prior. Did have 2 fuel pump relays replaced and prob. persists. Am looking at a variety of possibilities as I was able to find lots of info at various sites.
Will try to figure out how to start a new thread and post failures and success.

If the car stalls without lighting up the cluster like a Christmas tree, do check the switch by wiggling the key.

You also need to check the ECT sensor if you think you might be running rich with a warm engine.

Other causes of running rich include vacuum leaks and fuel pressure regulator.

Thanks, Klaus

Dash does light up and key wiggling makes no difference while running or after stall.

Noticed that rain makes no difference in behavior. Has been going on since late August (upper 70's) and it's raining now (mid 50's).

The warmer the engine is, the less it stalls. So at 10 minutes of driving, occasional stall. After 15', park and restart w/in a few minutes, lots of stalling (every 5' +/-). Drive for 30', almost no stalling.

To clarify symptoms: There's absolutely no sputtering, power loss, hesitation on acceleration, dip in idle or hard cold starting... Just, off.

When issue first came up, post-stall restart was very quick. Now it might take 5" and require gas peddle pump if I try right away. If I can give it 30", quick re-start, no throttle needed.

If I'm rolling faster than about 20mph it starts back up immediately on its own.

Cleaned MAF and changed thermostat. No difference. ECT sensor is fairly new. Saw/felt no holes in vacuum lines but realize they can be elusive...

Will be pulling plugs and distributor cap today.
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Voluto ergo sum

Check the wiring from the alternator to battery. I wonder if the serpentine belt is slipping when things are cold?

Your positive wire at the battery isn't too corroded?

There's two relays for fuel
One is in the main fuse block for the fuel pump
The other is above the engine cooling fan which is a safety relay that
enables the fuel injectors.

Both relays can kill fuel when they get flaky.

Something like this?

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/8080/113202-fuel-system-relay-850

I actually have one ready to go in the car. I'll try it first thing tomorrow and update.

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Voluto ergo sum

Here's your #1 troubleshooting tool for electrical issues:
This is the 1995 850, but you can search for your year to be sure.
But most stuff will be the same.

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/downloads/1995_850_wiring_diagram.pdf

Pg 64 is the 850NA schematic where you will find 2/23 the fuel pump relay
in the main fuse block. marked "103"
and 2/32 The Fuel relay (over engine fan) This completes the circuit
to the injectors.

Pg 65 is the pictorial where the locations of everything are pointed out

Pg 200-202 is the component list

Pg 203 is the Component index

Good luck, Bill

Thanks for the link, Bill.

Replaced the other (fan shroud) relay. No luck. Still dying.

I'm not the best at electrical diagnosis so I'm really hoping someone has seen/fixed this condition.

Could it be dirty MAF?

Thank you.

Norman
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Voluto ergo sum

Hi Norman,

Your problem sounds like a fuel issue.
Verify that the idiot light is not kaput for OBD codes!
When it dies you might pull the plugs and see if they offer a clue.
(Wet, dry, carboned up etc)
Are you sure there's no other engine symptoms.
Stuff like big vacuum leaks or torn hoses after the AMM could raise hell.
Screwed up ground connections could mess up the works.

When was the last serious tune up? A flaky distributor cap can kill you
when it gets wet.

Bill

Thanks Bill

Looking at these things today...
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Voluto ergo sum

I discovered that I have a pinhole leak in the top of my radiator and the coolant was low.

Topped off the coolant and the stalling issue mostly went away. Still happening but seems to be coolant/thermostat related. Is that possible?

I can't imaging how the thermostat and radiator could cause the stalling?

N.
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Voluto ergo sum

So long as the overflow bottle is not empty you shouldn't have any problems. No, the thermostat and low coolant will not cause a stall.

The occasional stall sounds like electrical wiring problem that is hard to pin point.

After it is started, try moving the key less than a millimeter in either direction. If it stalls, then replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch.

If the switch is OK, then you need to examine all of the engine grounds.

When it stalls, does the instrument cluster idiot lights come on?
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

How Low? Maybe there's a fault with the engine temp circuit or an idiot light out.
If the engine gets too hot, bad things happen.

Hey Bill thanks for all the input.

All I've done so far is surface gazing and hoping someone replied with an easy fix. My apologies for not digging into this in a serious way.

I'll be getting real with it over the next few days.

Engine temp is normal at the gauge which is why I didn't notice the radiator issue.

I noticed a whine coming from the area of the water pump so I'll be looking at that.

Now that the coolant is being kept full, I noticed that it dies more when cold, less when warm.

Thanks again

Norman



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Voluto ergo sum