Driving on the highway on cruise control at ~70 mph and the above message pops up and speed drops and I pull off the road with nearly no power. Put it neutral and rev the engine. It was like running on one cylinder.
Turn the engine off for about 30 seconds and it's runs normal. Power Brake, plenty of power....
Continue my journey (~70 miles), no issues.

Any ideas?

any reason why a "Check Engine" light did not come on?

Thanks


Kevin

If you were in the PA hill country, it might have been the knock sensors that went off and 'over - riched' your system to the point of almost flooding it.

Happened again last night. Not really "Hill Country". Was again right around crossing the Delaware River. Same thing, had to pull over, shut the engine off and turn it back on and fired right up. and again no Check Engine...

When the power drops off and you pull off the road, does it idle in neutral OK?

Is it such that it just doesn't want to go when under throttle load and in gear?

It kind of sounds like a fuel pressure/delivery issue. I'd be inclined to rig a fuel pressure gauge to the injector rail and place the gauge on the cowl where you can monitor it while driving under all conditions. Weak fuel delivery can be hard to detect in the driveway when there is no load on the engine.

Should of took your advice Chris. Today cruising along lost all power and would not start back up. If I had fuel pressure pushing in on the valve stem should release gas when the key is on correct?

Good suggestion Chris.

When I originally pulled over, I believe the Idle was okay. I was move concerned with Rev'ing in Neutral and putting under a load and had limited power until I turned off and restarted.

Any suggestions how I rig the Fuel pressure gauge up?

There is usually a capped schrader type test port on the injector rail just for this purpose. Unscrew the cap and the test valve looks just like a tire valve stem. There are gauges with about three feet of hose that will screw onto the test port. Run the hose out the back of the hood and tape the gauge to the windshield so that you can monitor it from the drivers seat. Make sure the hose isn't in direct contact with anything real hot like an exhaust manifold. Start the engine and make sure there are no leaks before closing the hood and taking off down the road. There should be enough "squish" in the hood seal that it doesn't crush the hose.

Your local auto parts store may have a gauge set that you can check out for just a security deposit.

Three days, no issues. Still wondering why no Check Engine light did not appear. Does that mean a Code was not thrown?

I was originally thinking before Chris put the Fuel delivery possibility out there a coil pack. From my records, I can only account for changing 3 of them @ around 125K, she now has 220K. Does anyone consider these as a maintenance item and trash these coil packs after X # of miles?

I also found in '08 or @ 118K I was intermittently getting the same message "Engine Performance Reduced" ... Don't remember if I had a check Engine Light or not, but the dealer pulled code ECM-9520; Accelerator Pedal Sensor Signal Low... Had to change the pedal and problem went away.... Come on another Gas pedal??

Also keep in mind when it popped up this time, not sure it matters, I was on Cruise Control