Is this common? I'm sure it will be covered under warranty, but would I be better off with the IPD version?

Mike-

The IPD part is for -'98 only. The '99- cars use a different design and the bushings are NOT the same. I have not seen an aftermarket replacement for the '99- as of yet. As long as your car is less than 4 years and 50k, Volvo new car warranty will replace it at no charge to you. As far as the IPD bushing for the earlier cars, I feel that it is an inferior product. It tends to walk out of the bracket, and when it is in the correct position, it transmits more noise/vibration than the OE part. I also doubt that it would function correctly in a collision. I bought my '93 with 101k, a broken timing belt and a broken torque bushing. 40k later, the bushing is still intact. I am not one to 'baby' a vehicle, but I don't abuse them either. I'm not sure why some people go through torque bushings as quickly as they do, but I think there is some form of abuse involved, based on how long mine has lasted.

Dave the Volvo Tech

'99 V70R AWD, '93 854 GLT, '82 242 DL

How do you define abuse?

Sure you're not a service writer? Abuse indeed. Or is it perhaps a design flaw? No, never, not a Volvo. Just how DOES someone "abuse" a motor mount?

Mike-

Since I have had a torque mount survive my 'spirited' driving style for over 40k, I have to assume that failures earlier than that involve some kind of 'abuse'. Also, since I don't spend my time riding around with these victims of a 'design flaw', I can't make a judgement as to what that abuse might entail. If, by chance, these owners don't BRAKE TO A COMPLETE STOP before changing direction, (drive to reverse, reverse to drive) THAT would reduce the life of the torque mount. Volvo didn't spec the bushing to last a lifetime, they designed it to react in a very specific way in the event of a collision. If the expense of dealing with this 'design flaw' is worth more to you than the safty designed into your car, sell it and drive something else. And no, I'm not a service writer.

Dave the Volvo Tech

Master Volvo Technician since '85

Master ASE Technician since '84

4 time VISTA Finalist

Vista Winner 1994

'99 V70R AWD, '93 854 GLT, '82 242 DL

Hi Dave,

This is a bit off your topic but my question is:

If I shift into Neutral at red light (similar to a manual transmission), does repeated shifting from N to D and D to N cause damage to the Automatic Trans?

I would think it is the opposite: by shifting into N at red light intersection, it reduces wear on the clutch dics inside the AT. Is this true?

Thanks for any advice?

Also what is the size of the drain bolt (to drain ATF from the Auto Trans)?

cn

1998 V70 Automatic

cn-

Shifting in and out of gear at a light will cause more wear to the clutch packs in your trans because they are engaging/disengaging while leaving the trans in drive the clutches remain engaged. The torque converter allows the 'slippage' that lets the car idle in gear while stopped. The clutch packs are engaged/released only while engaging a gear or during shifts. The trans is designed to remain in gear at brief stops (a few minutes at a time) and shifting to neutral would cause accelerated wear. The drain plug for the trans is a 24mm hex. Replace the crush washer when re-installing the plug. It is the same as the engine crush washer- P/N 977751.

Dave the Volvo Tech

'99 V70R AWD, '93 854 GLT, '82 242 DL

Motor mounts are abused from heavy corner loaded caused by hard cornering......from cornering to hard the motor mounts start to tear due to the access force put on them from the weight of the car....hope this helps answer some of the questions guys......Rob 1998 S70 T5R (A.K.A "THE DARK KNIGHT")

I would think that "drag race" style launches, and power braking would do much more to destroy engine mounts/torque bushings than hard cornering.......no?

Mike,

Do not use the after-market part! The V70/S70 series are noted for 'road feel'(vibration in the steering wheel). The stiffer IPD part really amplifies the 'road feel'.

When you examine the linkage from the mount to the firewall you will see that it is tied to a cast aluminum piece protruding through the firewall. Unfortuantely the steering hardware interfaces with this same aluminum piece behind the firewall. So now you will experience 'road feel' as well as a big dose of engine vibration and harmonics.

When I get to 70K miles, I am going to have the OEM part installed during the 70K service.

I just had my 98 S70 T5 in for service and found that the mount was broken. the service was done at 52000 miles but the thump started around 50000.

The one on our 95 was replaced by the dealer at the 30K service

(would not have known if I had not checked the list of everything

done). Your GLT has a much stronger engine then our 95 and can

stress the part even more the our normally aspirated 95. On the

other hand, my 98 T5 with 29K miles is doing fine. So, who knows.

In any case, failure of this part seems fairly common. I suspect

the techs have learned to check it on every car they see.

This seems strange at this mileage. Are you sure? If it is ripped, go with the Volvo part, especially if it won't cost you anything. This piece is also part of the so-called crumple zone and is an integral part of the system that is designed to make your engine go under the car in case of head on collision. I am sure Volvo has tested it in many crash tests. Do you think the manufacturer of the IPD part has done as much? Anyway, even after the warranty expires, it is not impossible to replace this part yourself using a home-made tool to press the bushing into place. The tool consists of a long bolt with big washers on each side. You put the bolt through the bushing and crank the nut on the bolt to press the bushing in place. This has been developed, used and described by someone on this board, maybe they can re-post or just search the archives. I would do my best to stick with a Volvo part in this case (as in most cases, actually).

Cheers

There have been some complaints and similar early failures, but many of us are still on the original with 10 times the mileage you have.

Regarding the iPd version, because it is made from urethane and not rubber, it is also stiffer. Some that have made the switch report having more engine vibration in the cabin. But urethane is definetly more durable.

As for warranty, I don't know, but it wouldn't hurt to check with the dealer if you trust them. If you don't trust them, have the service department manager state that the part is not covered by warranty, also stating the mileage, date of complaint, his name and position and his denial of repair under warranty and record him, or type out the claim, have him read it and have him sign it if he refuses to have the repair done whether there is a warranty or not.