I reinforced the car body for the middle door stay 5 years ago with washers. Recently something went wrong when I shut the door. It felt bad. Looks like there is a raggedy hole in the door jamb itself. I think the door stay just ripped into the door. Any btdt?

Any pick&pulls in your area? I found a matching color door to replace my creased up door. Very easy to remove, just loosen the two E screws and lift up, after disconnecting the electrics and door stay. Beats the heck out of welding.

I haven't come across the door stop pulling the door frame apart, usually it is the A pillar that cracks. I can't imagine welding would be easy given the location. You might want to pull the same trick of metal support the width of the door frame and screw it into place. With a hole for the door stay of course.

While the stay is out of the car, use lithium grease to grease the two round rollers. One of the rollers might be frozen. The stay for the front passenger door is the same as the driver's door, but usually lasts longer because it gets used less.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6ZteAl5Ho8

This fellow sells a plate to fix the door itself, and a different plate to fix the a-pillar. Anyway here is another instance of door also getting ruined. The door fix - well at the end he says this stuff might not hold, welding might be required.

I removed the door stay entirely. Pulled off the door card naturally. Here is a photo.


So yea, it's the door not the a-pillar.

I live in an expensive area - no part pulls or junkyards near me.

I did replace the door stay about 6 years ago, then I must have done the a-pillar fix 3 years ago. Now the door itself. Maybe I did something wrong like not lube up the new door stay.

I put a big label on the door - Restrain door by holding ON. Well I'm the only one who drives the car, but I guess the door is free to be taken by the wind when open.

steve

Try a search for pick & pull salvage. I understand that NY doesn't allow any, but there may be some in surrounding states. Many have web sites that list year, model, date entered yard (the longer it has been there the more stripped it will be) and perhaps even the color. If no color, then call the yard and ask.

Any year 850 will do. Sedan or wagon are the same. Door trim is different after 1995, but you have all of that already.

I picked my door for about $40. Plus got a spare stay from the passenger side for $7.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

OUCH! Welding won't help that! I think you are the first with that damage.

NYC is not known for cheap parts. Perhaps someone in CT or PA knows of a good yard with a door to match.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

Chuck & Eddies in Southington CT is the only one I know of around here.
I haven't been there in a few years, but they used to have a rotating stock of Volvos.
That may be about an hour and a half from White Plains.
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"Differences of opinions should be tolerated, but not if they're too different' - Sharon Craig

I like to think my door has less corrosion than most 1995s due to limited use, extra care, left out in the cold if salty. Still I'll drop by Southington, CT one of these days if I'm cruising by. My son did put a big dent in the right fender (damage prob runs deeper than the fender). The top side is loosing the clearcoat. Car is plain black. I just have to be careful on windy days. Now my A-pillar attachment will last forever, nothing there but a bolt.

Remember, any year 850 including station wagon will fit your car. Just get a black one if you can. A front fender would be a bonus!
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My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic

I'll have to check the doors on my wife's 95 855T. I have new straps to put in but she complained of water entry last week. Upon close inspection of the upper window frame and weatherstrip, it was obvious that the door wasn't pulled in tight enough to seal. Adjusting the striker plate in the B pillar fixed that.

Now you have me wondering if having a bad strap has let the door swing open too far and cracked A pillar welds.

Erwin

'95 855T 218,000 miles
'94 945T 160,000 miles sold
'88 745T 210,000 miles sold

The A pillar welds were a weak spot and poorly designed. The problem is the rollers inside the door check mechanism are not lubed at the factory and cannot be lubed without removing them from the door. The added stress of the extra tension then pulls on the metal in the A pillar, causing it to crack.

Before you put in the new door check, lube both of the small rollers. You will not be able to move them, the tension is too great, but white lithium grease on the center of the rollers will do wonders and last a long time.
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My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic

No first-hand information on this, but I'd guess it's time for a body shop repair. Unless you can weld.

The stops on my '95 854T have had issues, but not that serious...yet.
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"Differences of opinions should be tolerated, but not if they're too different' - Sharon Craig