There's lots of information related to the chime ringing all the time with the door closed but my car only chimes with the door open with the key either in or out of the ignition lock. It's as if the locking mechanism can't sense the key in the lock. I have no other issues with lights or anything else and the battery does not seem to be draining when parked. The chime turns off with the door shut.

Does my tumbler need to be replaced or the electrical switch on the driver's door side of the steering column, or ???

OK fellas, this is getting serious now. Wifey wants to look at buying another vehicle now that chiming is continuing ("who knows what's wrong with that car") and turbo isn't providing enough boost (another issue...)

Any other advice on the chime? The lock tumbler and electronic switch on the left side of the steering column have been replaced.

Thx in advance.

Here's what to try, and wont take long:

with the the car off, and key chiming,
remove one at a time (and replace afterwards)
Fuse 15
Fuse 28
Fuse 17

Note what happens to the chime with each fuse out, and post back.

My hunch: It might be the relay 2/5 marked "212"
lower level in the main fuse block. If you have access to a boneyard
donor car, it's easy to get. Just remember your little Torx bits

Bill

Pulling fuse #17 only had an effect turning off the chime. Pulling the other two had no effect.

And when #17 was pulled, the dome lights remained on.

Again, this is with key out and door open. Both the tumbler and electronic switch behind tumbler were replaced with new parts.

Fuse 17 gets powered direct from the ignition switch pin "S"
Pin S is supposed to have no 12VDC with the key out.


Your new ignition switch is shorted Pin S to Pin 30.
or the wires to those pins are shorted in the connecter or harness.

You can check the switch with an Ohm-meter: with the key out
there should be no connection from pin 30 to pin S


Bill

Thanks Bill, now I have to pull the new switch and test it on a bench. It appears that all the pins are labeled.

Fuse #17 is only for the chime, nothing else, so you are safe keeping it out and saving it for a spare.

No idea why the chime goes on when the key is out of the lock. Unless there is a short somewhere.


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Keeping it running is better than buying new

Thanks for the tip. I'll remove the fuses Saturday morning when I have a little time.

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=35376

I like the shot of WD40 in the key lock to free the switch. And the fuse to the dome light.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

Does the dome light come on when the door is opened?

You could remove the relay on the firewall or destroy the chime box (do not unplug it).

I assumed you sprayed the key lock.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

Hmmm... I never sprayed the new lock. I'll try that Saturday along with the fuse test.

Yes, the dome light turns on when the door is opened and turns off when the door is closed.

The dome light functions correctly. Are you saying that removing the fuse stops the chime? If so, then my dome light stops working, correct?

I tried the oil with the old mechanical switch and it didn't stop the chime. That's why I replaced the switch itself.

Late follow-up on this problem... I replaced the mechanical key switch and the electrical switch shown above. The chime still rings with the key out of the ignition and door open. The chime goes out when the door is shut.

What part do I replace next?

Check to see if the shift interlock button is stuck (near the shifter).

Shift interlock button appears to be functioning properly.

There is wiring at the tumbler that might be shorted or worn. It is not the electrical switch.

Of course, if you played around with the wires under the dash, we are not liable for anything!!!
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My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic

for now you can just pull the fuse for the door chime.