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Vacuum Hose air purge line Help!

Could you please tell me where this vacuum line joins?
The electric plug aspect of the device has a pipe joining with the air purge valve further away. Then there is this other pipe which has lost its home and could be the cause of all my anxiety.









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Vacuum Hose air purge line Help!

Well, there has to be a nipple within range.

Because this is a RHD car, the lines might be different than what we are used to.

You might want to try these guys on Greenwich Mean Time:
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=16

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Vacuum Hose air purge line Help!

haha no, you don't understand. The cord of the electric plug has a two foot range. I have been working on this over one hour ..








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Vacuum Hose air purge line Help!

Help me out a bit. The photo points to the vacuum line. It also shows that the electrical plug isn't seated. If the problem is the electrical plug, you may have the wrong plug in the wrong place, it does look pretty tight wrapped around the air supply line.

A vacuum line can go anywhere, but it needs a nipple to grasp on to.
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Using DICE to detect faults - Youtube Video link

Using Dice Vida to detect the fault.
Please find on youtube my video upload:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkkXSU0wXKg








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Using DICE to detect faults - Youtube Video link

Almost helpful. I turned the sound to max and could hear some back ground noise, but not your voice. So I couldn't make out the error messages.

Are all of those dash lights on with the engine running??? Looks like the rpms are at 900, which is good, but you probably had your foot on the pedal to maintain the rpms.

Was that ECM 120, ECM130, ECM510?

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Using DICE to detect faults - Youtube Video link

Hi thanks

Before putting back that purge pipe the errors in system were ECM-1200 Air intake temmperature, ECM-130A Air flow, and and a wheel speed sensor ECM-510F. related
The two messages left after first erase are CDM-0001, and ECM-510F.
I am excluding both due to a wheel sensor problem which I know.

I wonder if the IAT on the TB pipe is the problem. But it says everywhere it can't cause rich running.
I would like to take a video so you can hear the engine crank whining sound but encoding takes away all the quality of the film.

I am going to strip again to manifold off and check all pcv hoses.








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Using DICE to detect faults - Youtube Video link

The IAT can cause a rich condition, just not as rich as unmetered air into the manifold. The vacuum line you reconnected did wonders!

Did you have any problems with the intake manifold gasket?
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Using DICE to detect faults - Youtube Video link

I have removed fuel runner and admittedly didn't bother purging fuel but usually only a few drips come out. However, the fuel is pooling in the little connector to the intake manifold. There is fuel smell throughout the throttle and intercooler pipes. I wonder, due to all the fuel nature of this problem could it be a fuel filter or regulator? Then, why doesn't this show as a fault in Dice Vida?
I think you mean to say that little things add up and if I replace the IAT sensor then it might help.
The maf sensor clicks a lot after turning the ignition off.
Intake manifold gasket seated well.

Basically when this happened I had removed timing belt, adjusted vvt pulley a fraction while locking the cams in the offset ... then next time I started splutter. Have checked again and again all the lines and timing and sensors.

I should check that IAT. That is one thing that was failing. But, the sensor wires themselves were still together when I had the problem arise. It was later I broke them.








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Using DICE to detect faults - Youtube Video link

Once you get the engine running, the small bit of fuel will burn up with out causing any problems.

The VVT acts like the vacuum advance on a distributer, it changes with higher rpms and should not have any effect on idle. But do review your notes on how the pulley gets assembled. I remember seeing a good one on Volvospeed.com Any changes needed do not require timing belt removal, but will require the rear cam locks to be put in place, again.

I agree, the IAT sensor should not bother the engine at idle. But I do not know what the default values are.

That whistling sound could be a loose vacuum line???? Or cracked. Check the IC hose connections, make sure they will not turn if you grab a hose and try to twist it. Could the noise come from the broken IAT sensor?
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Vacuum Hose air purge line Help!

Got it. It is connected to a black pipe, less than a quarter inch, which I imagine heads back to the carbon canister.
I am going to try and start.







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