My left rear rotor is a bit rusty, I don't think the caliper has worked for at least 6 months or more, the others are clean and shiney. I tried to punch the pins out that hold the brake pads, but they are so badly rusted that the ends pf the pins just mushroomed under my hammer and punch. I may have to drill some of the pin metal to get a better set for the punch and hammer.

I am afraid to try turning the bleeder screw, lots more rust. The brass coupling for the brakeline to the caliper is rusted and refuses to turn.

And, this is just the passenger side! The parking brake cable is also not moving on this side.

I wouldn't mind replacing the caliper with a reman, but getting the brass fitting off is a problem. The last time I tried doing this I would up breaking off the brass fitting, and I don't want to get a new brake line.

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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

Klaus - what makes you think that the line is in any better shape than the rotor?

Take the fitting apart, if you break it, consider that changing the line was good insurance.

Consider how much work and time you can save if you just detach the other end of the line and toss the whole assembly.

Simple, I don't like to break things. Besides, having a new brake line made by the autoparts store guys might be asking for trouble. I don't know how to make a double flair and am not willing to learn.

I just might have a shop loosen all 4 of the brake line fittings, then drive home and replace the hardware. I also don't have a butane burner, so heating things up first is not a very good option. It would probably make for a very good charcoal grill starter???

I can only assume that the brake fluid was never flushed in 20 years. The rear rotor does not have a lip on the outside edge, but the rust is extreme.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

These are the lifetime warranty kind of brakes Klause. They never wear out. Just leave it alone.

I was able to get the front flex hoses off by applying heat.
Maybe it'd work on your rear fittings.

TH, I finally got all of the parts, put the left side back together with a new caliper.

I also wanted to replace the right side rotor and pads. When I pulled the rotor, the parking brake shoes fell out!! They delaminated. Good thing I had a new pair.

But, the inside of the rotor looked like the outside of the left rotor - another stuck caliper!! 30 seconds of blow torch and the brass fitting came loose, so I get a new caliper tomorrow.

NOTE:

PO must have had noisy brakes. The pads were glued down to the piston, all 4 pads, with some red plastic completely dried goop. I suspect that the plastic glue was also on the side of the caliper and the whole thing was jammed.

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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

alas! - disregard my post a few mins ago ;-) - glad you got it sorted.

Steve

Thanks TH, a lot of heat in this case, but the brake line nut is now loose.

I was going to replace the caliper this PM but realized that I also need to replace the brake cable (along with shoes and springs), so that should come first. I really don't want to take the rotors off too many times.

The T27 torx screw holding the brake line to the body is too close to the side rail, I cannot get a folding Torx driver against it. Nor can I get a 1/4 ratchet and bit on the end of the rusted on screw. I guess I will just hacksaw it off and then scrounge around and look for a bolt to replace it with.

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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

I finally got the caliper off the left rear, surprise! No parking brake hardware at all, and the cable is frozen. Darn.

The outboard piston on the caliper is frozen, explaining the rust on the rotor. The pad has about 5mm of material left Vs 1mm on the inboard pad. So I will need to replace the caliper.

How much heat do I need to apply to the brake line fitting? Am I trying to heat up the brass fitting or the brake housing? Both? Obviously, not red hot.

Any good quality reman caliper recommendations?

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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

Consider the heat sink that the caliper represents.

I would heat the caliper near the fitting and let the heat travel to the fitting and line - not the other way around.

Actually, the caliper itself does not get that hot, the brake pad absorbs most of the heat. It is the 20 years of rust and the different metals that form a tight bond.

I did heat the caliper housing much more than the brass brake line screw, and things came apart fairly easily. I did have to 'tap' the end of the wrench with a light hammer to get it started.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

Klaus, if you are still fighting this one i'd soak the heck out of the fitting area with PB Blaster, wait 12 hours soak it again, and repeat again, then apply "Light heat" and see if it will back out. PB Blaster is magical stuff in my opinion and from there you can land a solid reman caliper - i've seen cordon remans for 38 bucks and beck/arnley for 60 via google search. As it goes though junk whatever rubbish pads they given you on a semi-loaded reman unit and replace with OEM's for peace of mind.

Regards,
Steve