The belt is off. The idler pulley is off. The tensioner pulley has a T45 which I cannot get to! Not enough room between the T45 and the metal fender to get a 3/8 ratchet and T45 squared up. No even close! I have a swivel, but that is too long to work.

I tried a pair of pliers on the end of the T45 bit, but it just slipped.

It appears the tensioner pulley is in pretty good shape, but I would really like to put on a new one.

So far all of the bolts came out, but some gorilla probably did the last T belt change out. Lots of torque required to get these thing loose.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

recently did this on my '98 S70...was tight, but had room...fender that much different between the two body styles?

You are right, the V70 was easier. This 1995 was painful in regards to getting the T belt off. The lower plastic cover, which I don't know if I can even remove, gives just 1/8 in clearance to get the belt off/on.

There is less than 3 inches between the tensioner pulley and the fender. That's tight. I need to check the engine mount, it might be letting the engine list to the passenger side.

Anyway, I will get a short breaker bar tomorrow and finish the job.

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Keeping it running is better than buying new

I'm trying to think of how I got mine off last year.
I do remember what a pain that lower cover was. I think you're on the right track regarding the motor mount.

I may have used a box wrench on the Torx socket.

Thanks,

I tried using an 8mm cresent and bent it! So I went to my handy dandy 6" adjustable wrench. Even then, it felt like the screw wanted to slip. It finally gave a bit, 1/2 turn and free!

Almost. The T45 was still too big to unscrew, getting caught on the fender. I got a T40, now that is was loose, and wound it the rest of the way out.

I could have left the tensioner pulley in place, no play and the bearings were still tight. But, there was that new one in the box!

So after cleaning up the area (I guess a lot of CV grease managed to get in the Tbelt area before I bought it), I get to do the "reverse".

Klaus
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

Nice.

My neighbor was a very experienced mechanic from the "old days". A talented machinist, racer, shop owner, modifier etc. His specialty was sports cars from their heyday (1940s-1950s). Great guy.
Anyway, a little while after I got to know him, we were in his garage working on something and whatever it was, I suggested using an adjustable wrench. He looked at me and said "I don't know what you're talking about." I said, "you know, an adjustable."
It took me a while to figure out that he abhorred adjustable wrenches. He then let me know in no uncertain terms, "that's not a tool for a mechanic, it's for a plumber..."

RIP Tony. I miss ya!

I have to agree with Tony. I have one, and seldom use it, preferring some thing that actually fits a bolt properly.

Why don't plumbers use real box wrenches? Must be because most of their fittings are really large and a 16" long wrench would be too heavy to carry.

My brother in law had an 18" pipe wrench! For home use? I quietly laughed all the way home.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

Plumbers need to hold pipe and a box wrench ain't gonna work on pipe unions etc.
My frozen junk O2 sensor came out after heating cherry red with oxy-acetylene and
turned begrudgingly with a 14" pipe wrench, the hex was buggered by the O2
socket. It was frozen/rusted/corroded in so bad, it screeched nearly as high
as a dog whistle when it came out.

You can use an adjustable here and there such as removing faucet valve inserts,
and taking out the oil drain plug, not needing to find the right socket.
I still use a Williams 10" adjustable that's about 40 years old and it is a nice tool. They were bought out by someone, maybe Snap-on. Cheap tools are often junk, just like those goofy Taiwan Visegrips years ago that were only good for paper weights. I suppose Tony would hate Vise Grips.

Tony was wrong about adjustable wrenches, everyone uses them. He probably had
one fall on his toe when he was a kid, and never got over it. :-)

The only adjustable wrench I ever used that worked properly (kept the jaws parallel and tight on the nut/bolt) is the "Bahco" wrench that came in the Volvo tool kit--122 and 140 models. They even had two versions--one has a "V" opening at the far end -- with teeth to catch worn out or rounded nuts -- and the other a curved end for use as a pry bar. -- Dave

Breaker bar is a no go, requires the same space as a ratchet.

Hmmmm. Wrench on the business end of the T45...

I just tried to jack the engine up via the oil pan. The whole car lifted, so that didn't do any good.

Thanks Tom.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

I just tried to jack the engine up via the oil pan. The whole car lifted, so that didn't do any good.

Next time, you need to remove the 2 upper bolts from the lower mount and you can raise this side of the motor.