Well I finally did it, I bought a 2004 S60 AWD with 150k on the 2.5 turbo. It is a very clean car and came with all the service records, I bought it from the original owner that took the car off the showroom at Orloff Volvo in Chicago.
I have two 740s (87, 380k and 90 turbo 5 spd 125k) and a 940 all with red block engines; I have replaced the timing belts in all three, and do most of the maintenance on them myself.
The new to me S60 is sitting in my driveway after the trip home from Chicago to traverse City MI (250 ? miles) waiting for a new timing belt and some very minor issues. RH headlamp wiper not working, headlamps need adjusting bad, and a good coat of was before winter.
The car has had some of the wheel bearings replaced, two coil packs and some other maintenance items. One thing that was done that I don't know why is the front passenger window and window regulator were replaced; has anyone had issues with window regulators?
Can anyone give me any tips or advise on changing the timing belt? Is it much different than any others? I haven't really looked at it, is it a good idea to replace the water pump at the same time?
Any experience, tips, and information on this car would be great. I hope this car will be as good as my other 3 have been.
Thanks
Gene

Thanks for all the information

KlausC can you tell me more about this ??

The Haldex rear drive module does need an oil/filter change at this age. It is a difficult procedure even on a lift.

Where can I find any information about the drivetrain ??
Thank you
Gene

Like the automatic tranny, the Haldex oil/filter is good for the life of the car???? At least according to Volvo. But at 50K miles, Volvo stops supporting the owner, so I guess the life span is 50K! Other car makers that use Haldex suggest a 50K interval for Haldex oil. I agree with them, not Volvo.

If you google the procedure, you will know that it is quite difficult to replace the filter. At least the oil can be sucked out and replaced easily. Like the bevel gear oil.
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new

Hi buckley_49620,

I would replace a crankcase breather. Good luck and enjoy your "new" car. :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhPBRvZHzpM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otzkZ_f3Y3s


"One thing that was done that I don't know why is the front passenger window and window regulator were replaced; has anyone had issues with window regulators?" "RH headlamp wiper not working, headlamps need adjusting bad,"

Was this car involved in an accident?

There is nothing in the service records or car-fax of it ever being in a accident. The previous owner bought the car new and told me that it had never had any damage or repairs to the body, so I assume that it has ever been to a body shop ????
I did adjust the LH headlamp but the adjustor is not working on the RH side, I will be sure to check out and service the PVC system this weekend and pull the headlamp capsule to see what is going on with the adjustor.
I am getting the security system service message and no start issue so I better get after that.
Thank all of you for the information
Gene

I thought you would get a kick out of this video showing how to remove a headlight module:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjFhNIkgghQ

Note: If you do take out the headlight, replace the corner bulb while you have the chance.

The security module is behind the wheel well cover, forward of the right front wheel. The module has a battery that can leak and ruin the computer board. Lots of discussion on the WWW about that problem.
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new

Timing belt replacement video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IK_zH8g8Fow

The crankshaft sprocket timing mark is often vague and causes confusion for people. To alleviate this problem, BEFORE you remove the old belt, roll the crank around clockwise until the cam sprocket marks align with the notches in the plastic cover, then mark the crank sprocket-to-engine case relationship with a sharpie. Other than that,the procedure is about as simple as Jason makes it look in the video.

Another area of concern on a 150,000 mile white block is servicing the PCV system. They tend to clog up around that mileage.
--
Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)

Good point about serpentine belt.

The new belts do not crack like older belts, they do not show their age.

They DO wear out like tire treads.

You need a gauge that you can get from Gates Belts for free.

If you have no proof that the belt was changed when your maintenance book called for it, you should change it or measure it.

A worn belt will slip when it is wet out and possibly betray you on a rainy trip.

Check the records for the timing belt change, it should have been done around the 105K mark. Most shops gouge the consumer and replace the H2O pump at the same time, these metal pumps typically last over 200K. If the Tbelt was replaced, you are good for at least an additional 70K miles, if not 90K.

The serpentine belt is the one to watch. It also should have been replaced, but some shops are 'cheap' and don't bother.

Take a close look at the top engine mount for stress cracks. In your car it might still be on top of the engine. Volvo moved it to the front, passenger side, of the engine in later years.

If you ever get a check engine light, autoparts stores will read them for free.

Check the ATF for color. If it is a dark red, consider flushing it yourself with 10-12 quarts of 3309 fluid. Never drop the pan on a white block tranny, there is nothing to service there and getting it back on is a pain.

The Haldex rear drive module does need an oil/filter change at this age. It is a difficult procedure even on a lift. Farm that out to a good Volvo shop. Rear diff fluid typically lasts forever.

Put some leather oil on the front seats while the temp is still reasonable.

Have fun driving it!!!
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new

Don't know a lot about your new car. Do have one suggestion, though. If it was my car with 150k, in addition to the timing belt, I'd consider doing the water pump, tensioners and idler pulley while you have it apart. Typically that stuff, except for the T-belt, lasts past 200k on 5 cylinder Volvos but while you are in there you might just go ahead and do it.

Just as a point of reference, I did all of the above at 213k on my 95 850GLT. That car has a 70k timing belt change interval. Isn't yours a 105k interval? If so, you shouldn't need to do your T-belt until sometime after 200k. Or was the T-belt never done? Do you have records? If not, look for a T-belt change sticker under the hood. That should show BOTH mileage and date it was last replaced.