2003 V70, 2.4NA, 225,000 miles:

I've got a weird issue with my drivers window freezing in any position it was last moved to, but only when the engine is running. If the key is in position I ACC or position II IGN, I can open and close the window all day long (as long as the engine isn't running when the key is in position II). I can even move the window when the key is turned OFF, as it should - you know how you can roll the window up for some period of time after shutting the key off. The problem also affects the mirror control and door locking. But only the drivers door window and lock are affected - the other three doors' windows and locks will move, even when in failure mode, regardless of whether they're being controlled from the drivers or passengers door .

This began about a month ago as a very intermittent thing, but now I can count on it not working. At best, I might get about three opportunities to move the window after the engine is started, then it will freeze. If the engine is running and the window is frozen, I can hold down on the switch with one hand and then turn the key back toward position I just enough to interrupt the ignition for a split second and then back to position II, sometimes quick enough to keep the engine running. That quick interruption in ignition allows the window to start moving. It never freezes in mid stroke as long as I keep holding the switch. Once I release the switch, regardless of window position, it will most likely be frozen in that position the next time I try to move it.

So far I've taken the DDM apart and lightly cleaned the contacts. I've disconnected, spray cleaned, and reconnected the following disconnects - 1 at window motor, two at the DDM, 1 at the door jamb. I left the tweeter wire alone. No change it behavior after all the cleaning. I'm kinda spooked by all this as I fear the problem may be ship side, given that an interruption in ignition wakes everything back up.

Also, would a VIDA/DICE setup be much help in these situations? I've resisted getting into all that - well so far have never really needed to. I guess if we're going to keep (affordably) driving these things I'm going to have to get into that stuff. Two P2's in the household.

Any suggestions as to the most logical step forward with this problem are greatly appreciated.

VIDA/DICE probably won't help in this situation. Does the window work when 'auto' down/up is invoked? Or is it just when trying to move the window a little?

If the 'auto' function doesn't work, raise the glass to the top. Then pull up on the switch half way for a second or two to reset the limiter.

If I were a dealer, I would replace the switch and charge you a bucket of money even if that doesn't fix it!

If the glass goes up an down slower than the others, the motor/fuse may be overheating. It might be worthwhile trying to swap one of the large 60amp fuses and see if that solves the problem - there should be at least 4 of them in the fuse box.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

When the problem arises it affects both the momentary and auto up/down switch positions. Just wierd that it only happens when the engine is running. Any other situation it works fine. That makes me think there is nothing wrong with the fuse, wiring, switch, or motor. You'd think there would be more electrical energy available when it's running, if it was a low voltage problem. I may try the larger fuse thing. However, it's not blowing the fuse so I don't think it's drawing more current than what the fuse can pass.

Over at MVS they've suggested a couple different system reset procedures. I'll probably try those also.

I read somewhere that there can be a correlation between the alarm battery and window function. I don't know about that one. However....... that being said, I was working in that area a few weeks ago to replace the W/W reservoir and the RH headlight (residual deer damage from a couple years ago). The problem did seem to start right about the time of that repair. Hmmmmmm.

Oh, yes, I'm familiar with the window re-calibration procedure. For some reason my wife's S80 needs it reset about once a year.
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Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)

The large, oversized fuses never 'blow', but they can overheat and shut down until they cool off.

Because you were working around the right headlight, check the ground wires behind the headlight. A loose ground will also cause a number of problems, and the wire can easily become dislodged.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

With fingers crossed, it appears this issue is resolved. I was never able to detect any kind of intermittent power interruption between the car and the door. So I noted the part number on the little white sticker on the bottom of the DDM. Actually there were three numbers - the part number and two other numbers that must have been some sort of codes. Then I set off for the pick-n-pull yard in search of a match. The closest match I could find was in a 2003 S60 (I have a 2003 V70.) The part number and the second number were a match, but the third number was different. I don't know what the third represents. Heck, it could have been a date code or anything. I looked at several 2001 thru 2004 S60's and V70's. The ONLY matching P/N I could find was in the 2003 S60. I never did find a 2003 V70 in any of the three yards I visited. $2 to get into the yard and $15 for the DDM. Took it home, installed it, and bingo - everything worked properly and has been doing so for two days now.

So I guess the lesson here is, at least with a 2003, it's not absolutely imparative that a reprogramming process has to follow a DDM replacement in order to make it work. Like replacing a DIM, with the correct part number and a bit of luck, the components can be replaced via plug-n-play.
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Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)