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Axle spine clunk on 07 V70 covered under TSB labelled axle ping V70-XC70 2007

Our 07 V70 is our daily driver. With 125,000 miles and with brand new front struts we thought we were cleared for fun summer driving. But then there was a new clunking sound upon acceleration at slow speeds.

After a second follow up at the independent Volvo shop, the word was that the axle splines are clunking and that a TSB covers it under "ping". I guess Volvo might not want to include clunking in their TSB index.

And the guys were candid enough to say that the gluing of the splines, per the TSB, was a fix which lasted about a week or several thousand miles. Both had been ineffective. So the real fix is replacement of the front axles left and right. And the cost is more that 2 BOAT (Break Out Another Thousand) units but less that 3 BOAT units.

So my question is how long should I live with the clunking before I bite the bullet? I mean should I live with a little axle ping; how much can it hurt?








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    If you are pretty sure it's the spline that's sloppy, you could try something slightly less expensive - pick up new axle bolts at the dealer and install them per the Volvo torque recommendation. I believe they are actually torque-to-yield bolts, the exact tightening/torquing values I don't have at hand.

    At 175,000 miles we get a sort of "clack" noise on the front LH axle of my wife's S80 when shifting from reverse to drive, or vice versa, but after jacking up the wheel and rocking it forward and backward I have narrowed it down to play in the CV joint rather than the spline. (I'm awaiting a good time to take the car out of service long enough to have the axles rebuilt.)
    --
    Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)



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      Thanks for the recommendation.

      Oxygen sensor replacement, hatch struts, key fob repair, gear shift lever repair, window lock actuator replacement, and electric antenna repair is the complete list of what I have repaired on the five Volvo wagons we have owned over the years.

      I balked at front struts on a GTI and just took the assemblies to the independent shop. I also play around with the Drcolorchip paint systems to keep the road rash to a minimum.

      Axle anything is beyond my ability. And my time is taken up with the care of an all but legally incapacitated person. I was reaching out to see whether axle spline repair is real or something one sells to rubes like me.



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        OK, I have to admit I'm NOT KLAUS (nor CHRIS) ... but I believe there is "some" good advice between the TWO of them ... 'Just had my '07 V70 wagon (250K miles) at the dealer last week for the same reason ... a slight clunk when accelerating ... along with a recently lit (HINT!) check-engine light and ABS warning lights ON. Of course, I thought O2-sensor, ABS module replacement, and engine mounts (the three typical suspects from similar bricks I owned dating back to '97). But, alas after a $240 diagnostic charge (and a long laundry list of 'recommended' items per KLAUS's post), I asked to talk to the TECH that worked on the car: he said it looked like I had some "non-dealer brake and bearing work" done recently (he was correct!).... and DRUMROLL ... the non-dealer mechanic apparently did not tighten the BOLT through the front-left axle. The axle had enough slop to confuse the ABS system, and throw a "P0500" code, "requiring" (per Volvo diagnostics) a new steering angle sensor, front axle replacement, bearing replacement, hub kit, and labor ... all adding up to $2.4K. When asked whether it was dangerous to drive the car, the Volvo TECH said he tightened the bolt, and all errors disappeared ... and ANOTHER drumroll ... no more CLUNKING upon acceleration. I'm going back to my long-time non-Volvo mechanic to double-check on that front left axle, tell me if it is possible that his tech forgot to tighten that bolt, and give me his recommendation on whether any further work/parts are needed.

        'Hope this helps.

        Bernie



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          Thank you Bernie! I love your 'simple' solution!

          $240 for an inspection? Ouch. At least you got a nice hard copy list you can keep in the garage and put smiley face stickers on it when the 'problem' goes away.
          --
          Keeping it running is better than buying new



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            Hey KLAUS ... you're welcome. PS: The $240 'inspection' included a really NICE car wash/detailing AND two new rear stop bulbs (the ones I replaced apparently weren't the "correct ones", worked fine ... but eventually were throwing a 'replace stop bulb' warning light). This goes to show you that these cars are becoming increasingly difficult to diagnose yourself!

            Bernd Z.



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    It is rare that original axles will have spline issues. Did you ever get the ABS repaired?

    Try getting a second opinion at a dealer. Besides, replacing axles are not that expensive unless you get OEM. With the car on a lift and air tools, expect a 2 hour labor charge.

    Are you sure the noise is coming from the front of the car? It could be the rear parking brake shoes.

    --
    Keeping it running is better than buying new



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      The front brakes have been done; however, the Anti skid temporarily off indicator message is something we have learned to live with and/or clear from the message board. So the lit yellow indicator symbol is the sole indicator that with this exception the cream puff is over maintained.

      As for the ping, the low level clunking is very quiet on start up. It is like clunk, clunk, clunk and then it goes away as you accelerate. It does sound like it is at the front of the car.



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        Axle spline 'ping', is just that, a little slop when engaging the gears. I wouldn't replace them or attempt to repair the splines.

        The repeated clunk at low speeds deserves 'some' attention. Not being able to hear, see, or drive your car allows only speculation. I know dealers are a popular 'rip-off', especially on this web site, but call and ask if you can have the car 'inspected' for any faults. Usually they charge an hour of labor, but they will give you a list of EVERYTHING that they would like to work on. That list can be ignored for the most part, but it will give you a sense of what needs to be done and how soon you or someone else can work on it. Kind of like a pre-purchase mechanical inspection.

        They might even have a simple explanation for the 'clunk' and the ABS error.

        A long time ago, I bought a used V70R which needed at lot of TLC. I had the dealer inspect the car and got a 2 page list of problems. One of which was a leaking steering rack. A second opinion from a good shop told me that the leak was a 'weep' and not to worry about it. It never leaked during the 10 years I had the car - I did change the fluid once.
        --
        Keeping it running is better than buying new



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          As always thanks for the advice. Perhaps I do need to set one independent garage against the other just to keep them honest.



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