So, I'm replacing the Serpentine Belt idler roller on my 93.

But the bolt was stripped down before I got to it, and I haven't exactly made it better...

Does anyone have any idea how to get the dang thing off? I have the replacement bolt (at least from the #'s I was given to order) and it's a regular rotation.

So I would assume the bolt in the car is the same rotation (counter clockwise to remove).

I've soaked it with PB Blast, I've used vice grips, channel locks, pipe wrenches and swearing and I'm getting no where...

Anyone know of a good tool to use to get stripped bolts off (with little wiggle room)?
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1985 245. 246K Gone..but not forgotten.

I had to resort to cutting off the head of the bolt.

The vice grip(s) I bought didn't work, nor did the irwin extractor kit.

Oh well, it's only money, right?

Right now I have the bolt soaking with PB Blast. Hopefully it comes off easy (and the replacement bolt I bought is the correct one).
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1985 245. 246K Gone..but not forgotten.

The bolt on my timing belt tensioner roller was striped and was driving myself mad with getting it out (of course refusing to go to a pro mechanic. Finally, I took my grinder and cut a hole through the fender, directly in front of the bolt, and then was able to get a socket & breaker bar on it. Of course it looks like a frankenstein job, but the inner fender cover hides it.

If you have the bolt head already cut off, use a goo steel drill bit and drill into the center of the bolt shaft. Often the vibration of the drilling will work the saft loose - you can also reverse drill and sometimes that will get the shaft out. Of course if you have a tap set it helps but a decent one is probably $40-50.

good luck!
mark

If I didn't post this, I used a hack-saw to cut the head off.

It took a while, but I got it off. There was no possible way to get a drill down there, I had literally 1" of room.

Hopefully others don't ever have to do this.
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1985 245. 246K Gone..but not forgotten.

Curious... what happened next?

I'm imagining a steel bolt with the hex head cut off, essentially now a stud, still stuck (corroded?) in the aluminum block. Was the stuck bolt finally loosened and twisted out, for example with vice grips?

Actually I sprayed it with PB Blast, but ended up probably not needing to. I was able to remove the remaining bolt/stud with just my hands.

The squeal I had hoped was caused by the idler roller didn't go away.

I'm not sure whats causing it.

It usually is worse when I turn the steering wheel (when I first start up the car), but once the car is warmed up it's gone.

Turning the AC on doesn't change the frequency of the sound, or cause it.

The sound actually appears to come from both the exhaust manifold (firewall) and front of the engine, and also the back of the engine (timing belt/serp belt).

I speculate that it's the PS Pump, but it really only sounds like what i assume the belt skipping sounds like and not a "whine".
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1985 245. 246K Gone..but not forgotten.

Good to hear the bolt was removed OK - nice work. I've had good success with PB Blaster too.

Another troubleshooting challenge. I would have suspected the idler too. Alternator bearings?

I checked the serp belt again, and didn't really find any clues.

The stethoscope didn't help much. I did loosen the belt, and it only starts making noise when the belt is being loosened or tightened. As in, if it's completely loose (no tension) it makes no sounds. But when you start putting tension on or off, it makes the noise. Almost sounds like it's coming from the crank shaft, but not the shaft itself but the belt being too loose ON the crankshaft.

Of course, the noise only occurred when I took the tension off, instead of normally. It still did it when I tapped the gas.
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1985 245. 246K Gone..but not forgotten.

I don't know. The alternator pumps out a good voltage but i don't know if that means it's fine.

I'm going to get myself some of those car stethoscopes, to see if I can isolate the noise.

The good thing is, it *shouldn't* be the timing belt issue. I know some people say to take the belt off and run the car.

I've tweaked on the tensioner, and the noise gets louder if I let it be loose (like the belts not moving as quick as the pulleys/etc are), and all but disappears if I add tension.

I'll report back when I do the test with the stethoscope.
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1985 245. 246K Gone..but not forgotten.

Can you get at the bolt head with a hammer or a hammer and a suitable punch?

Sometimes a sharp solid smack, straight on the bolt head with a large hammer will help free up the bolt.

Bill

When I go to yard sales, etc, I look at old tools - I buy anything that I can modify if it is cheap enough.

Like a small pry bar made from a screwdriver, or a WV hubcap puller made from a small Phillips screwdriver bent to a hook.

I have a good number of cheap wrenches made from flat stock - a six-sided flat wrench fitted to your bolt (grind to suit with a Dremel tool) might be just what you need.

There are sockets with curved spiral channels that force the socket toward the bolt as you apply force.

See - https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-5-Pack-Bolt-Extractor-Set/1000363541?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-ToolsAndHardware-_-SpecialtyHandTools-_-1000363541:IRWIN&CAWELAID=&kpid=1000363541&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=1198&k_clickID=cdfafdb4-c45e-4e5a-8c41-18e886eabc07&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIy7HY752u2QIVWLnACh0_MgnBEAQYAiABEgLX7_D_BwE

I ended up buying a new vice grip, that has an A shape to it, where there are 3 surfaces of purchase instead of the normal 2.

I hope to get it off tomorrow.

thanks for the suggestions, I'll look into it if my new vice grip doesn't work.
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1985 245. 246K Gone..but not forgotten.

Best tool might be patience :)
We're rooting for you. G-luck
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Farewell 'black manta' ('97 850) Hello 'rocket sled' ('06 V70R)