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All,
So if your following along here of my tail of whoa here:
https://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1654978/V70-XC70/rear_wheels_arent_turning.html
I'm currently trying to remove said drive shaft from the vehicle as the angle/bevel gear is not turning.
I've removed all the bolts and have been able to get the drive shaft out of the bevel/angle gear, but I can not remove it from the Haldex unit.
Is it supposed to be this hard, am I missing something? I've just come in for the night after banging on it and have just sprayed PBBlaster onto it and will let it soak for the evening..
As a side note, if this car does not pass inspection (Maryland) because of the exhaust I'll be somewhat glad as I've lowered it and if I have to remove it to get this darn thing out it would be a good thing!
Thanks, and I look forward to your suggestions, or anything else you want to throw my way. I'm a big boy, I can take it, honest!
Matt
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1989 - 245, 1990 - 245, 1991 - 245, and 1993 - 245
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Now that the propshaft is out, try starting the engine again and see if the bevel gear end is turning when in drive. I don't know if the bevel gear box has a drain plug in the 2007 model, but check the fluid for color and smell. The weak point is a flanged gear that may slip when abused. "Slipped" equals broken and not repairable.
Also remove the Haldex box. It needs an oil and filter change anyway. Check the circuit box and look for corrosion, the 2007 should be pretty good about keeping water out.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new
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KlausC,
Got the car all back together tonight. Tomorrow title, temp registration, and then off for inspection in the lovely state of Maryland.
I did the gear tonight and no dice, it does not spin when the car is in drive. It does not have any play that I can feel, but I won't really know until I get it out and have a look.
Fun times!
Matt
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1989 - 245, 1990 - 245, 1991 - 245, and 1993 - 245
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"...then off for inspection in the lovely state of Maryland."
Does Maryland have strict auto inspections?
I've heard Maryland's inspection criteria for used cars sold in state is among the toughest in the country.
I have no idea if that's true.
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George,
I don't know if it is strict or not. Some places can be nit pickers, where others, pass you without hardly looking at the car.
I'm going to a place I've gone before and they are very fair and honest, that's why I keep going back.
I've gone over the car and have replaced some parts that really needed to be and some that were questionable. Even last night I had to take the headlights out again and replace two bulbs that I forgot to check when I put them in the first time.
I do all this as I don't want to take it back if I fail and pay again, nor do I want them to do the work as I'm fully capable of doing it.
The car get's titled and a temp registry tonight, and then I'm going to drive it to see what I may have missed as I've only driven it around my court twice since I've gotten it running. Looking forward to taking it to work tomorrow to see how it really does.
Matt
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KlausC,
So I have some front suspension work to do tonight, but once done I do plan to start the car and check the bevel gear once more. It did not appear to have any play in it on Saturday night, but I couldn't start the car at that time due to all the suspension stuff all over the place.
When I do start it tonight I do plan to grab hold of it and see what is going on while the car is running in drive. I'll report back what I find out.
As far as the Haldex in the rear, am I correct to understand you are suggesting that I remove the entire unit, not just replace the filter, clean & inspect the electric pump and other electrical connections???
If I do remove it, I will drill and top the bottom of the unit so that I can drain the fluid easily the next time I do this job.
Any ways, let me know if I understood you correctly.
Thanks,
Matt
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I was thinking more on the lines that you removed the entire propshaft - to the rear diff. Leave the Haldex in place, just change the oil and the filter. That is enough pain-in-the-neck for now, as you were not getting any AWD warning messages anyway.
Funny, the other car makers have a maintenance schedule for the Haldex (every 40-60K miles) but not Volvo. MB calls me at 50K intervals for tranny, transfer case, Haldex, and rear diff every 50K miles - for a mere $1200!
Because you did have a warning about the ABS, check the front wheel sensors while you are working in the front of the car and make sure one of them is not knocked out of alignment or had the wire broken.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new
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KlausC,
With the driveshaft now out, what will the Haldex unit do, if anything??
I assume the electric motor will still run, and if so, what does that do, pump the oil around in the Haldex?
I have the kit to change the oil and filter, and was thinking at some point of remove the Haldex and drilling a hole in the bottom of it for easier drainage of its fluid.
Thanks,
Matt
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The Haldex motor will get energized if the front wheels turn faster than the rear wheels. No drag racing in dirt! Actually, the unit will just engage the clutch until no longer needed. The rear wheels don't get a whole lot of torque, about 25% of the front.
I managed to spin all 4 wheels in my driveway when covered in snow. Fun going sideways! But that was with my 1998 and the old design.
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new
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Finally got the darn thing out. It was really in there in the haldex unit.
I can now see signs that the bevel/angle gear has been worked on or removed/replaced at some point in the history of the car, so now I get to do it again.
Fun times!
Matt
--
1989 - 245, 1990 - 245, 1991 - 245, and 1993 - 245
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George,
The front of the driveshaft came out easily and once it was out of the car I could tell that it had been out before as the end had been greased so that it would not stick to the end of bevel/angle gear flange.
The rear attached to the Haldex was a different story as I'm pretty sure its never been out.
I tried two methods, but I believe only the one was really what got it to come out.
The first method, was to attack the back of the flange where the driveshaft attaches to the flange. There are 8 holes in this flange; 6 threaded, 2 that are not. I used an air hammer with a pointed chisel in these holes and attacked it this way. It bent my tool and did nothing to move it.
The second method, was that I used a curved like air chisel and wedged it between the flange and the end of the driveshaft. I then took the air hammer off of the chisel and then in trying to get the chisel out it popped the driveshaft free! Then I just had to work it out being careful not to damage the O2 sensor on the cat.
When this drive shaft goes back in, I'll remove the whole exhaust system and put anti-seize on the ends of the driveshaft so that I don't have to beat it out next time, because there will be a next time, that next time being when I put a modified bevel gear that will actually lubricate the bearing correctly.
Matt
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