Hi, I just bought an 01 S60 that has an idle issue. The people i bought it from said it ran great until they bumped another car in parking lot and broke the front passenger headlight. that's when idle issue/cutting out started. Could the broken headlight be shorting and messing with the ECU? (the headlight hasn't been replaced) some kind of sensor that tripped after the accident? It does have a check engine light which i think is O2 sensor. It seems like it is an electrical issue though the way it just cuts out. any suggestions, help would be greatly appreciated!

The ECM, along with the TCM, is located in the plastic box just behind the RH headlight. If that's the side that got bumped, is there any chance it got hit hard enough to cause any damage or shorted/stressed the wiring?

Is it a turbo? Any chance the intercooler got cracked or the ducting is damaged/loosened?

Also, the MAP sensor is sometimes attached to the radiator support - you might look to see if its wiring and vacuum hose are still connected properly.

Have you scanned the OBD to see if there are any fault codes stored?

Is the Check Eng Light illuminated?

How long does it run each time before it dies?
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Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)

Hi, so I had a little time to work on it...I cleaned the ETM (non turbo), it was pretty dirty...but it still wouldnt idle after that....but, If I unplug the mass airflow sensor and then start the car it idles...it runs rough, but doesn't stall out...if I plug it back in the car revs up a little, stops running rough, but then dies right out.....Is this an indication that the MAF is bad?

"...Is this an indication that the MAF is bad?..."

It very well could be, however I would be reluctant to rush right out and buy a new MAF sensor without seeing a fault code that supported that diagnosis.

Have you pulled the fault codes yet?
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Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)

I just figured out that if I disconnect MAF and let it idle I have that high pitched whine, BUT, if I pull the oil dipstick out a little I have really high suction going into dipstick...with the dipstick pulled out the whine goes away, if i put my finger over it and cap it off the rpm's go down a little and the whine comes back, going away as soon as I release my finger.

It sounds like you need to do a PCV service on the car. The non-turbos have a vacuum regulating diaphragm that is part of the oil trap (breather) box. Over time that diaphragm becomes fouled with carbon build-up, causing way too much vacuum to be applied to the crankcase. As one person described to me, it's sucking air in through the crankshaft and cam seals, causing them to play like a kazoo.

Here's what mine looked like inside:



When you pull up the dipstick or crack the oil filler cap open it give the incoming air another path to take so the squealing stops.

I believe that all those codes you're getting are due to the effects of this huge vacuum leak and not an indication of a faulty MAF, O2 sensor, etc.
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Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)

thank you...after a little internet research this is the conclusion I came to as well. Am I correct that the fuel bar and intake needs to be removed to get to this? Is it located on the front of the engine under the intake? I've heard it's a lot of labor, but relatively inexpensive for parts. Do I need the entire kit or just a new diaphragm? I really appreciate all this help, having a resource like this is priceless!

Yes, off with the injector rail and the manifold.

FCP, and probably other suppliers as well, offer "kits". Here are a couple different options, one of which is a bit more extensive (and expensive) as it includes more parts like new injector seals:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-pcv-breather-system-kit-s60-v70-genuine-volvo-kit-p2naearly1p10

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-pcv-breather-system-kit-v70-s60-v70pcvbase3

The thing you have to watch out for is that the short "L" shaped hose which comes attached to the separator box is available in two different diameters where it attaches to the engine block. The change in diameter was cut in at a certain VIN number so have your VIN available when you order. I screwed up when I ordered mine and got the wrong one, so I had to do minor surgery to retrofit the old hose onto the new box - I didn't like doing that but I was in a bind. Also, unless you have an Oetiker clamp tool, you'll have to use regular worm screw type clamps when reassembling.

The toughest part of the job is the loosening and retightening of the first (or last?) manifold bolt which is partially hidden by the thermostadt housing. The lower manifold bolt holes are slotted so you can have the bolts started into the engine before hanging the manifold back on. If you can't fully remove the bolt that interferes with the thermo housing it's not a big deal. You can slot the gasket hole when you put the new gasket on. You'll see what I mean. If I own either of our cars when the next PCV service comes due I'm going to explore the possibility of substituting that last bolt with a torx head bolt which might be easier to access.
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Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)

Well, I was actually able to get the entire intake manifold and pcv box removed in about an hour. The only bolt i had trouble with was the one on the bottom of the box. the ports on the engine were really dirty, especially the bottom one which was halfway plugged with sludge....I'm sure the inside of the box is really bad! I'm going to order the parts tonight. The only thing i'm slightly worried about is that one of the injectors looks like it has a hairline crack in the plastic housing. With injectors do they all have to be replaced together? Or could I just replace one if it turns out to be defective?

"...With injectors do they all have to be replaced together?..."

Being the world's biggest cheapskate, I would probably just replace the one. And it would probably be one I grabbed an the Pick-n-Pull yard. Is the main body of the injector cracked? If it's just the pintle cap you should be able to find replacements on the web (ebay or wherever).

Carefully dig as much crud out of the engine ports as you can without pushing it in. Then connect a piece of hose to the port, loosen the oil filler cap, and make sure you can blow air into the port and through the engine.

Good luck!

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Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)

I changed the pcv and the car is running great. Now I just need to find a local friend with a scanner to reset my SRS light

So, i disconnected the MAF and was able to drive to get codes pulled. Car ran a little rough at idle, but didn't stall with maf unplugged.... I have codes 0032,0113,0102. Was told it was a code for maf, O2 sensor bank 1, and intake air temp circuit high input. I do have a whine from the engine on idle and deceleration, kind of high pitched, almost like a whistle.