|
|
|
Weird, Passenger side headlight burns bright 98% of the time, then shuts off randomly. I replaced the Headlight bulb and it still does it. SO before I go on a troubleshooting adventure, I wanted to check in with you guys to see if you have heard of this failure before. Thanks you guys. This is my first V70, so I am still in the learning curve. Both sides of the vehicle have Halogen bulbs in them, could these be causing a problem ? Should I roll back to conventional lamps ?
--
'72 P 1800Es Wagon ::'92 740 B230F Wagon::'92 B230F 240::'86 B230FT Wagon (RIP-Parts Car):'83 320I::'79 320I::'81 320I::'74 2002::'70 Torino GT Convertible(351C)::1970 Dodge Dart GT 340::'70 Monte Carlo::1979 Dodge Tradesman B300 Custom(360)::'84 SAAB 900
|
|
-
|
|
|
Halogen are very hot and require a large heat sink. These days some folks are going to LEDs which are brighter and use less voltage. The problem is LEDs require a mod to the bulb out module.
You might want to check the ground wire by the right headlight, it tends to get a bit rusty there. Also check on the wire connector and make sure the plastic isn't melted.
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new
|
|
-
|
|
|
Klaus, it's one of the relays in the under the hood fusebox that is causing this, now I just have to figure our which one it is. I see one is labeled ECU but nothing is identified (at least that I could see) as a Headlight Control Relay.
Any idea which relay controls what system ? I am heading to the Pick and Pull to round up some relays and start swapping, but it would be better if I knew which relay is the actual headlight control relay. I need a Haynes manual soon.
Rich
--
'72 P 1800Es Wagon ::'92 740 B230F Wagon::'92 B230F 240::'86 B230FT Wagon (RIP-Parts Car):'83 320I::'79 320I::'81 320I::'74 2002::'70 Torino GT Convertible(351C)::1970 Dodge Dart GT 340::'70 Monte Carlo::1979 Dodge Tradesman B300 Custom(360)::'84 SAAB 900
|
|
-
|
|
|
I don't like wiring diagrams because none of them show where the relays are. In your case, all of the relays appear to b e standard, the same. It could be one became loose, or, most likely, the contacts are burned.
Don't pull on the one labeled ECU. You could pull one at a time and see if that is the problem child, without the engine running... Or, tap each one with the handle of a screw driver and see if that has any effect.
If you find the 'bad' one, pull the cover off and see if it is burned. Usually, the contacts can be filed a little to prolong its life.
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new
|
|
-
|
|
|
I went and pulled all of them one by one with the exception of the Number 1 ECU relay and there was no effect at all on any of the lights, I did not swap any of the smaller relays (Solid state ones).
The Legend on the cover shows no relays associated with Head Lights or any lighting systems all.
So I am thinking I have a wire problem somewhere in the RH Headlight assembly or associated wiring. I was hoping it was one of the relays that was jittery, but it seems like I have to delve deeper.
But that legend on the cover shows no relay associated with exterior lighting, so I unless there is some undocumented relay association to exterior lighting, I don't see how any of these relays effect the headlights at all.
Rich
--
'72 P 1800Es Wagon ::'92 740 B230F Wagon::'92 B230F 240::'86 B230FT Wagon (RIP-Parts Car):'83 320I::'79 320I::'81 320I::'74 2002::'70 Torino GT Convertible(351C)::1970 Dodge Dart GT 340::'70 Monte Carlo::1979 Dodge Tradesman B300 Custom(360)::'84 SAAB 900
|
|
-
|
|
|
Yup, I know those tricks with relays, happens alot with older mechanical type relays. SO I went to the junkyard and picked up four square ones of the mechanical type and four of the solid state ones. The rectangular ones are solid stare as far as I can see.
So I'll try swapping the relays to see if anything changes or not and I will report back what I find.
Thanks,Rich
--
'72 P 1800Es Wagon ::'92 740 B230F Wagon::'92 B230F 240::'86 B230FT Wagon (RIP-Parts Car):'83 320I::'79 320I::'81 320I::'74 2002::'70 Torino GT Convertible(351C)::1970 Dodge Dart GT 340::'70 Monte Carlo::1979 Dodge Tradesman B300 Custom(360)::'84 SAAB 900
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hey you guys, thanks a million for the replies, this is so helpful and saves hours of research. Like Einstein said, "Its a smart man who learns from his mistakes, but it's a genius who learns from the mistakes of others."
I'm a 245, and 745, B230F and B230FT guy, so this 5 cylinder Brick is new territory for me I got it for a 1000 bucks off a kid in Sturbridge, MA with 205K. It was his mother's car and it's in near perfect shape, he tried to sell it but people were non Volvo peeps and saw the 205K and stroked out over the mileage. It gets 29 MPG with the AC on and not all of the miles are highway, so I am seriously excited by this new adventure mobile.
I'll take a look at the connectors tomorrow a.m. and post a debriefing of my findings. Klaus & Chris\s, I remember you guys from the RWD Forums, you guys know your shit and I really appreciate your inputs. Thanks again, I'll post up what I find, I'm sure something is a but crunchy under that cover.
Rich
--
'72 P 1800Es Wagon ::'92 740 B230F Wagon::'92 B230F 240::'86 B230FT Wagon (RIP-Parts Car):'83 320I::'79 320I::'81 320I::'74 2002::'70 Torino GT Convertible(351C)::1970 Dodge Dart GT 340::'70 Monte Carlo::1979 Dodge Tradesman B300 Custom(360)::'84 SAAB 900
|
|
-
|
|
|
A fairly common problem can be the wire connection(s) right at the headlight which, over time, can become weakened by heat damage and corrosion. It can even cause intermittent power to the bulb. When cold, there's minimal continuity. When hot, NO continuity.
In order to test for that you can disconnect the plug on the back of the headlight and run a jumper from the fuse box battery connection to the connecting pin on the headlight assembly. (You'll also have to jump the common ground pin to chassis.) If the bulb illuminates for a while then goes dark, then you know the problem is in the headlight and not upstream in the fuse/CEM/Switch/etc.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Chris, just to make double sure I understand what I am seeing in your picture is the wires to the low beam with the plastic housing removed correct ?
Then I do a direct connect to the bulb correct ?
--
'72 P 1800Es Wagon ::'92 740 B230F Wagon::'92 B230F 240::'86 B230FT Wagon (RIP-Parts Car):'83 320I::'79 320I::'81 320I::'74 2002::'70 Torino GT Convertible(351C)::1970 Dodge Dart GT 340::'70 Monte Carlo::1979 Dodge Tradesman B300 Custom(360)::'84 SAAB 900
|
|
-
|
|
|
The access caps and bulbs are removed. The yellow wire powers the low beam bulb and black is the ground.
Note, like Georgeandkira says, the plastic insulator that held the yellow and black wires side=by-side is long gone - no big deal.
Check that the female spade connectors on each wire are firmly attached (all strands) and not all rusty and corroded. Re-terminate them if needed. You may have to get new terminals. I believe the dealer sells a new bulb connector with pig tails.
Then connect the bulb and apply 12v power and a ground path to the main connector on the outside of the headlight assembly as I have marked on the photo. See if the bulb burns continuously.
No? = Problem is in headlight assembly
Yes?= Headlight is good
Then connect the headlight to the car's wire harness. Now see if the bulb burns continuously.
No? = Problem is in the car's wiring
Yes?= Miller time.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks Chris ! Awesome !
--
'72 P 1800Es Wagon ::'92 740 B230F Wagon::'92 B230F 240::'86 B230FT Wagon (RIP-Parts Car):'83 320I::'79 320I::'81 320I::'74 2002::'70 Torino GT Convertible(351C)::1970 Dodge Dart GT 340::'70 Monte Carlo::1979 Dodge Tradesman B300 Custom(360)::'84 SAAB 900
|
|
-
|
|
|
We're talking H7 lamps here, yes?
If so you probably noticed how cheap the plugs are. There are the equivalent of female spade connectors in those plugs. Crack the cheap plastic away and give the rolled edges of the connector a light crimp with any pliers. Clean any black crud off of them.
A touch of dielectric grease will help lower resistance and heat.
Also, you needn't fret about the wires touching. The body of the contacts is stiff and the 2 will never touch.
|
|
-
|
|
|
So just crush that plastic housing that contains the female spade type connectors and do a direct connect to the wires (male spades) ? I have no problem doing this at all.
And obviously won't destroy the female spades or wires in the process, but is the lamp/bulb going to seat in the cavity correctly after I crush that plastic crap out of the way ?
--
'72 P 1800Es Wagon ::'92 740 B230F Wagon::'92 B230F 240::'86 B230FT Wagon (RIP-Parts Car):'83 320I::'79 320I::'81 320I::'74 2002::'70 Torino GT Convertible(351C)::1970 Dodge Dart GT 340::'70 Monte Carlo::1979 Dodge Tradesman B300 Custom(360)::'84 SAAB 900
|
|
|
|
|
