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I was driving tonight, and I noticed my brake pad seemed to hesitate/wiggle a little (hard to describe)...and then about a mile from home my ABS light and Tracs Off light came on.
From what Im looking at online, it sounds like the ABS module is the most likely culprit.
I checked the fuses, they're all fine. I don't think it's the wiring harnesses (but I will check that in the morning or by the weekend).
I know of the midwest-ABS.com (or whatever their url is), and I will probably be using their services when the time comes..but my question is about removing it.
How difficult is it? It seems that I'll need to remove some stuff (I think it's the air filter box mostly).
Any advice? Alternative suggestions for trouble shooting?
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1985 245. 246K Gone..but not forgotten. Sold in 2013, found 2018! Still running on the road. Of course. 1993 Volvo 850 soon to be gone
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Ended up buying a new ABS module and it works fine now.
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1985 245. 246K Gone..but not forgotten. Sold in 2013, found 2018! Still running on the road. Of course. 1993 Volvo 850 soon to be gone
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And while we are on this topic, how exactly do you remove the accompanying ABS pump & motor assembly on a '97 850?
The ABS module itself is easy enough to remove - just put a towel underneath the set-up such as to allow you to catch and find the special torx bit that constantly falls off during the process - but I cannot figure out how to remove the accompanying pump/motor. I've already removed the master cylinder - that was easy enough as you just need to have a long enough socket extension to run through the cylinder-to-abs metal tubing. I've hit a stone wall - there's nothing on the web on this pump/motor removal process.
Thanks in advance.
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I'll reply to my own message as I figured it out and perhaps this may help someone out there in the same predicament.
There are 3 little rubber bumper type gaskets that hold the hold unit onto its metal brace. They look like mini engine mounts. These rubber gaskets are sandwiched between some round metal mini-plates. Those plates have a T-20 torx head screw on top (you'll have to look hard through probably some apparent rust). You'll need to go after the top two plates first, and then go after the third plate last. That last plate is buried underneath the whole set-up. And, to get that third plate, you need to move - not take off - the metal brace that is holding the whole unit to the frame. There are three bolts on that. Take the one that is directly accessible off first, and then just loosen the others and from there, you'll be able to move the metal unit out and slightly off the car rail frame. From here, you can now get after that third mini-plate with a racket.
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Which year 850? 94-95 850's have bullet proof ABS modules. Did your speedometer go nuts?
If it is a turbo, the fresh air line from the air cleaner to the turbo needs to be disconnected and moved out of the way for easy access to the 4 long screws holding the ABS electrical unit to the ABS pump. These screws have a E5 torx head (I used a very small SAE bit on a 1/4 inch ratchet). Loosen all 4 before removing, one is always very tight. Be careful about disconnecting the electrical hook up, the plastic gets old.
Are you sure that it is the ABS module and not a bad bearing allowing a front wheel to slip out of alignment? Or a control arm bushing? Your symptoms don't sound like an ABS failure.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new
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Did a scan, got this as a result (related to ABS I mean)
ECU 01 (ABS)
09162675 P/N Part Number
003 H/W Rev.
09162677 Software
003 S/W Rev.
ABS has 1 DTC: 40
ABS-314: Right Rear Wheel Sensor, open/short? [or bad ABS module solders or ignition switch]
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1985 245. 246K Gone..but not forgotten. Sold in 2013, found 2018! Still running on the road. Of course. 1993 Volvo 850 soon to be gone
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Much better. I always go for the easy stuff first: pull the right rear wheel after checking the bearing play and check the sensor for mud/ice/loosness. If it is a bearing, replace with a German or Swedish company, the aftermarket Chinese stuff will not last more than 10K miles.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new
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Should I be concerned that *everywhere* I read says that it's 99% going to be the ABS module?
I will be checking the RR tire though.
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1985 245. 246K Gone..but not forgotten. Sold in 2013, found 2018! Still running on the road. Of course. 1993 Volvo 850 soon to be gone
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When the ABS module fails, it normally produces different errors along with a speedo failure. Try the easy stuff first! Yes, the ABS modules are prone to failure when the soldering gets weak. The ABS does nothing but modulate the brakes so the wheels do not lock up while braking, no loss in braking ability nor does it cause vibrations.
Midwest ABS is the place for repair, been there done that.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new
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Test drove car this morning to see if spedo works (it does).
Lights were on to start off, but once I hit about 20 mph, they went off.
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1985 245. 246K Gone..but not forgotten. Sold in 2013, found 2018! Still running on the road. Of course. 1993 Volvo 850 soon to be gone
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The ABS does a check at around 18mph after engine start. Sounds like the
ABS module is good. All sensors work.
Now, it is just a guessing game...
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Keeping it running is better than buying new
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after a few days of driving around, clearing the code on Monday and today (twice), after driving probably 200 miles, I checked the codes again.
This time it had ABS 314 AND ABS 324.
ABS 324 Right rear wheel sensor, irregular > 25 mph (ie, interference or excess oscillation > 40 km/h) (or bad ABS module solders or ignition switch).
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1985 245. 246K Gone..but not forgotten. Sold in 2013, found 2018! Still running on the road. Of course. 1993 Volvo 850 soon to be gone
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Most of the engine error codes point you in a specific direction rather that being specific about a problem. Not so with the ABS module. both of the codes point to the right rear wheel sensor. The 314 is no communication with the sensor, the 324 is a something strange happening but can communicate?
Either it is a bearing that is allowing the wheel to oscillate or a soldering gone bad in the ABS module. It is hard to examine the sensor as the rotor needs to be pulled off and the Ebrake gets in the way. If you pull the wheel, use a damp cloth to clean the ridges around the axle - the brake dust must not be made to go airborne. Inhaling it is dangerous.
The wiring needs to be inspected at the sensor. It is possible that chaffing occurred.
If the ABS still gets errors, then sending it off to Mattty Moo for soldering is required.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new
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I checked the wire, didn't see any wear/damage to it.
Of course, that doesn't mean much.
I did clear the codes, drove for about 30 minutes, and re-scanned it and got nothing (at least, nothing about the ABS, etc).
So for the time being I'm going to continue driving it until it appears again and then run the scan again.
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1985 245. 246K Gone..but not forgotten. Sold in 2013, found 2018! Still running on the road. Of course. 1993 Volvo 850 soon to be gone
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It's a 97 (sorry I swore that i had put that in the "model/year" section).
I don't know if it is any of those, but I'm going to be checking over the next few days.
Would what I'd be looking for be obvious?
I did notice the car sounding louder up front (but nothing alarming...my brain always hears noises that aren't there anyways...the pleasures of owning so many cars over my life that have needed repairs, you invent noises).
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1985 245. 246K Gone..but not forgotten. Sold in 2013, found 2018! Still running on the road. Of course. 1993 Volvo 850 soon to be gone
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