I’ve seen differing torque spec for the cam cover. They vary from 17nm to 45nm+50 degrees. I have the proper hold-down to compress it but can someone give me the correct torque spec? Thanks.
Marlin

I have never 'torqued' down the 12mm screw. Snug, not gorilla tight. All that screw does is keep the plastic in place. Remember, the bottom of the cover needs to fit into the slots.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

Sorry, my mind was elsewhere.

The cam locking tool requires the cams to be slotted straight across, one side slightly higher than the other. The cams need to be locked to remove the cam cover nicely.

There could be a single bolt on the sprocket in the way hampering removal. It must come straight up!
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

I've removed all the cam cover bolts and the cover is loose, but I can't lift it straight up because the VVT sprocket extend over the cover casting. I can't lift the cams because the sprocket also seems to hang up on something on the head that won't allow it to lift straight up. How should I proceed to get this off? Also, I was going to use the cam alignment set that I bought for my 960, but the slots on the cams on the V70 are at an angle up from front to back, rather than 180 degrees horizontal like the 960, so the alignment tool won't work. When I started, I cranked the cams forward clockwise, then backed up to the timing marks on the cover. Did I do something wrong? Thanks.
Marlin

It sounds like you guys are talking apples and oranges. (The large casting on top of the cams vs the plastic cover on the very top??)

Sorry, I don’t have my trusty Haynes manual at hand for the specs.

Haynes says for “Cylinder head upper section to lower section”:
(Done in two stages)

Stage 1: 17 Nm / 13 ft lb
Stage 2: Angle tighten an additional 50 degrees

No mention of tightening order that I could see. Probably kinda like head bolts.