Hi All,

I hope everyone is well.

My friend gave me their 2001 V70 as a gift. It has a base engine and has 140k miles on it. The wagon has a new ETM, white-label, and new breather box. This 19-year-old wagon rides well. My wife likes having cool AC and automatic windows. It's relatively easy to work on like my 240 except removing an alternator. :)


Here is the list of things I fixed so far;
camshaft oil leak
heater core coolant seal leak
hood strut
tailgate hatch strut
front passenger side mount
top torque mount
bottom torque mount


Here are my questions.
Q1. How do I change the voltage regulator without removing an alternator or intake manifold? The large plastic bolt is stuck. What tool do you use to remove it? I am starting to strip it. My last solution is to loosen the alternator, not remove it, and rotate the backside towards me for clear access. Do you have any suggestions?
Q2. The engine shutters when I shut it down? I believe my timing is correct. Do I need to change the two-round mounts? They seem okay.
Q3. Has anyone used TRQ strut/shocks and lower control arms from A1AUTO? Are they good? For strut/shock, I expect to last at least 60k miles. For lower control arm, I expect to last 100k miles.


Thank you as always.

Hi All,

Here are the steps I took to remove the voltage regulator without removing the alternator. The process is very similar to the early video on how to remove the V70 alternator from A1Auto.

disconnect battery
remove serpentine belt
remove the power steering pump, three bolts thru the pulley
move up the pump without stressing the upper coolant hose
remove three bolts holding the alternator
disconnect wires that go into the alternator
loosen two bottom bolts that holding the AC compressor
you can rotate the alternator and get a clear shot.
removing the back cover to access VR. I thought Sven is working for the Bosch alternator manufacturer. It was too tight.

When I rotated the alternator, I saw a label that says, "remanufactured". I laughed, I proceed anyway. My old brush measures 7/16" long, new brush is 9/16" long. I put back the old brush. Now, the car is ready for another 100,000 miles. ? We will see.

Thank you as always.

Hi all,

So there is no more cylinder/s banging sound when I turn off the engine. I poured a bottle of Techron complete fuel cleaner on a full gas tank, and I have used more than half tank. Initially, the noise and rocking movement didn't go away. It felt like someone swings a bat inside of the cylinders. I am so happy it's gone. I fill up the gas to full and poured another half bottle of Techron additive. I think two bottles will do the job.

Thank you as always, Klaus and Jim!

Presently there are 7 responses to the opening post.
1) Going by internet posts, Chevron Techron Concentrate is highly regarded. "They say" it is to be used before a stint of local driving as the PEA does it's cleaning upon shut-down.

1a.) I think I buy good quality fuel and believe my car benefits from regular longish trips (an 800 mile weekender once a month). I use the stuff annually.

2) The VR in my '02 fritzed and I ceased the opportunity to remove the alternator and had it rebuilt at a local shop. I believe anyone's 20 year old alternator would benefit from new bearings, freewheel pulley and whatever else they replace.

2a.) No problem removing mine and your's is the same so I can't offer any tips.

3) Consider replacing your control arm bushings with poly bushings. My local NAPA store charged $10 per bushing for the press work. It delivered a great, solid feel and those polys last forever they say.

3a.) PM sent regarding control arms.

4) No experience with A-1 Auto and the TQR parts they sell. The company surely does not have all parts for all cars.

I installed Sachs SuperTourings (said to make dampers for Volvo). Bilstein H4 and H6 models are said to be good. I installed H6's on a Saab and loved them and have H6's to go on my 2007.

Hi George and Kira,

I didn't get an email from you. This is my email address. I sent you a photo of old trans fluid.


87245swedishbaklava@gmail.com

HiYa Flying Brick,

Good score on the V70! Lucky you.

They are good, reliable cars once sorted. I like to think that though parts may be more expensive, you replace fewer of them and less often. And I don't think there are more comfortable seats in any other car, ever.

I'll share some of my experiences in hope that they may prove useful.

Q1. Definitely get that voltage regulator fixed. When it went out in my '01 V702.4T @205K mi. all sorts of weird electrical things started happening. The auto-dimming rear view mirror never worked again. I was able to coax the whole alternator out. Getting it back in, even with the the aid of gravity, was the worst part (YMMV, as the turbo intake is different).

Q2. Shudders, as in dieseling? If so, like others have suggested, a leaky injector could be dumping fuel. Monitor your fuel economy. Maybe check spark plug color for inconsistencies.

Q3. Why are you changing the struts? I replaced the originals (and associated components) at around 260K with the cheapest I could find at the time (Sensen) to try and get rid of a clunk. Clunk remained and no ride improvement was observed. I suspect the culprit was the worn sway bar mount bushings, not struts or strut mounts. Unfortunately, inexplicably, replacement bushings are unavailable to buy.

Best of Luck,

Will
--
XC60 / Odyssey

Hi Will,

"Good score on the V70! Lucky you."
Yes, I feel lucky. A long story short, I fixed and prolonged the life of my friend's 245. I refused any sort of payment so they gave me their V70. The V70 was in a bad shape. They are not handy so it would cost them a fortune to fix it.

They couldn't let go of their 245, I felt bad so I helped fixing it. They still have a long way to go but I did what I can to cut their future bill significantly.

"Why are you changing the struts?"
The car has 140,000 miles. The ride is harsh, it's noticeable when it hits a large bump. The lower control arm are in bad shape, especially the passenger side, took hot engine oil beating.

The Sachs on my 240 last only up to 70,000-80,000 miles. I am on my third set. They are also getting harsh.

Interesting you mentioned the sway bar bushings. I had a clunk/rattle on my 850 that I had great
difficulty finding. Turned out it was simply a worn out sway bar end link! Yes, definitely check out your sway bars if you are having clunk/rattle issues. If you have a more serious sounding clunk check your tie rods.
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

How do SB!

If may add to Klaus’ excellent suggestions:

2. BG 44k is probably the best fuel injector cleaner but expensive. Personally, I use Techron complete fuel system cleaner when empty and refill with premium gas. I have had pretty good success with this. Worst case scenario is replacing the injector.

Also, on a separate note, the 5 cylinder engines do much better with synthetic motor oil than conventional. Keeps PCV clean and your engine will last longer.
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

Hi jwalker,

Okay, I added a bottle of Techron complete fuel system cleaner.

Based on my friend's maintenance history, their mechanic used synthetic oil. However, their driving style was having lots of short trips.

I am driving like it's stolen. Let's how it goes. I will report back. Thank you as always.

Q1: The last VR I changed was in a 1998. I removed the top coolant hose to get better access to the back of the alternator. Disconnected the battery ground, unplugged the wires on the back of the alternator, removed the 3 screws holding the black cover. The VR is held in with 2(?) Phillips head screws.

I have no idea what you are referring to regarding the 'large' plastic bolt'. Do not remove it.

Q2: You may have a dirty injector or two. A couple of bottles of injector cleaner might help that. Or a very dirty cylinder.

Q3: Lemforder control arms. High quality stuff ONLY. I have only used OE shocks on the FWD cars, they last around 130K.
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new

Hi Klaus,


"I have no idea what you are referring to regarding the 'large' plastic bolt'. Do not remove it."

It's the +B2 bolt. Click the video line below and go to 10:11. That plastic bolt is not coming out. There is not enough room to put 6 point socket.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kg-lsya-LiY

I added a bottle of injector cleaner. I will report back.

In my opinion, the V70 parts cost are still high after 19 years or I am spoiled by my 240. I love Sachs strut/shock but the price is too high for V70. I might take a risk and you could say I told you so down the road. I am still thinking. :-)

Thank you as always.

Front struts usually last around 130K miles. If the ride is 'harsh', check the strut mount bushing by turning the large nut visible in the engine compartment. If it is easy to move and does not spring back, it needs to be replaced with a heavy duty version when you replace the strut.

The sway bar end links are easy to diagnose, just turn the front wheel, reach behind it and grab the link and try to shake it with force. If it moves at all, replace it. Usually, it 'rattles' over bumps.

I have 180K miles on my lower control arms, they need replacing. Or so the mechanic says.

Sachs struts are about $100 each at FCP.
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new

A friendly suggestion....:)
You can be economical with some parts but don’t skimp on the control arms. Folks who have used cheap ones end up replacing them rather quickly. Only use OEM or Lemforder control arms. I believe Lemforder is OEM anyway.

BTW - My Dad had a 2001 V70. Nice car! Will always appreciate that car. The car gave its life and probably saved my Dad’s life when he was rear-ended at 60 mph. Don’t think a 240 is as safe in a rear end collision.

Stay safe,
Jim
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

Hi Jim,

Noted. I will think and decide carefully.

Yes, the V70 is built like a bank vault. The back seat is heavy and sturdy.