Volvo AWD V70-XC70 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 12/2020 V70-XC70 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

B4 SERVO COVER KIT. - 2002 V70 T-5 V70-XC70

Getting shift "flares" between 1st and 2nd

Any comments on the effectiveness of the kit, flush and software update.??

Appreciate the thoughts








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

    Just a thought:

    How 'bout we Volvoers clarify things a bit?

    1: If we drain the sump, measure and refill with new fluid we should call it a DRAIN & FILL.

    2: Call a cooling line disconnect and pump out a PUMP OUT.

    3: Call a big destructive flush with a mismatched, generic machine A FLUSH.

    It's funny as all 3 get called a "flush".



    Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.





    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

      I agree with the Drain & fill.

      A pump out? It is still a flush in my book, it is just using the engine as a pump rather than a POS destructive machine.

      Of course, with the newer models, It becomes impossible for a shade tree mechanic to drain & fill. Heck, almost impossible to even check the level, much less the color of the ATF. Best to trade the car in at 50K miles, the end of life(as defined by Volvo) for an automatic. Unless the owner buys additional years up to 100K.
      --
      Keeping it running is better than buying new



      Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.





  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

    Hi Mike,

    Just for you.

    I called IPD this afternoon. Per IPD parts specialist, You have to flush the entire fluid, install the B4, and update the program.

    It's hard for anyone to guess the outcome based on your situation. Thank you as always.



    Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.





    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

      I have an IPD Bulletin IPD -PI-391
      which outlines the proceedure and gives you the adaptation protocol.
      My transmission shop does not recommend a flush with 180,000 - to risky to mess up clutch packs - just drain and refill - and he is willing to do the job and the adaptation.
      Then after a few weeks if still issues will do the software

      The dealers first want to diagnose your unit $$ to let you know all thats wrong in my opinion - before doing this proceedure which has been around for a while - most claim they are 'unaware' of it

      Thats my take anyway



      Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.





      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

        Hi Mike,

        It sounds like you have a good plan.

        Best of luck.



        Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.





        •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

          OK - did not do flush - Transmission guy said DO NOT flush over 100,00Km - Changed B4 servo - scanned all good runs great - no adaptation needed - and he showed me the damaged original part

          So $32.00 fro IPD solves a lot of issues



          Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.





          •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

            Mike,

            Check the fluid color using the dipstick and a white paper towel. It should be red. If it is brown and stinks, you need to at least flush the fluid.

            This is an easy operation, requires about 4-5 quarts of JWS3309 (for 5 speed automatics). Just drain the fluid from the sump, measure the amount drained, and add the same amount through the dip stick hole.

            The drain will get the dirtiest fluid out, especially if the engine has not run for 8 hours. Here is a tutorial:

            https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/volvo-v70-transmission-drain-and-fill-tutorial/

            --
            Keeping it running is better than buying new



            Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.





            •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

              GOT THE B4 SERVO COVER REPLACED AT A TRANNY SHOP - NEW OEM TRANS FLUID

              = FLARE PROBLEM SOVED!!! NO SOFTWARE UPDATE NEEDED

              A GOOD CHEAP FIX. ($35 PLUS LABOUR = WORTH IT)



              Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.





  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

    The B4 servo kit is for shift flare between 2 and 3. You, as the driver, should be able to determine when it is flaring.

    I assume you are not the original owner and you do not know which Volvo dealer serviced the car before you. Otherwise you could call the dealer and ask if any tranny software updates have been performed.

    --
    Keeping it running is better than buying new



    Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.





    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

      Have a print out from IPD with the Proceedure PI-391 for B4 Servo Kit
      The Volvo 'Dealer' wont do unless they do a diagnostic 1st for $245 !
      They claim to not know of the flare issues - or service bulletins - called 2 Volvo Service places

      There is a great Tranny Shop in town - car has 300,000Km on it and he does not rec a flush - will contaminate clutch packs - just drain and fill - he will put the unit in and is familiar with adaptation - says a lot of cars have adaptation proceedures. If all else fails then will do a software update - but am trying to avoid the dealer. Will just find 20 more items that HAVE to be done - and the car runs real well

      The flare is subtle so should see improvement

      Thanks for inputs



      Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.





      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

        A transmission shop will use a machine to 'flush' the ATF. NEVER allow a machine to do the flush, he is correct as the pressure is too high for the transmission and will move sludge to the clutch packs and destroy the internal seals.

        Drain and fill works quite nicely. So does using the car's engine to do a flush, which you can do at home. If you drain and fill, two or 3 times, it works just as well as using the car's engine to do a flush.

        As for the adaptation process, removing the transmission computer or disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes will accomplish that. It will take about 2-3 days of normal driving for the adaption to complete.

        A 'light' flare at 300Km (200K mi), is not terrible. I suggest the battery disconnect and see what happens before running out and investing in a B4 servo.
        --
        Keeping it running is better than buying new



        Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.





        •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

          So then I don't have to do the complicated adaptation and watch the yellow triangle thru all the gears?



          Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.





    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

      I have the KIT from FCP and am taking it to a Volvo dealership - hopefully they will install, flush, and scan and do the 'adaptation'

      If they do not do adaptation can I drive it home as is ? - :45 minutes city/ hwy driving



      Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.





      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

        Can we assume that the fluid level is correct and is still nice and red? If it drives correctly in the higher gears I would say that it is safe to drive, but that's just me saying that.



        Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.




<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.