Getting shift "flares" between 1st and 2nd

Any comments on the effectiveness of the kit, flush and software update.??

Appreciate the thoughts

Just a thought:

How 'bout we Volvoers clarify things a bit?

1: If we drain the sump, measure and refill with new fluid we should call it a DRAIN & FILL.

2: Call a cooling line disconnect and pump out a PUMP OUT.

3: Call a big destructive flush with a mismatched, generic machine A FLUSH.

It's funny as all 3 get called a "flush".

I agree with the Drain & fill.

A pump out? It is still a flush in my book, it is just using the engine as a pump rather than a POS destructive machine.

Of course, with the newer models, It becomes impossible for a shade tree mechanic to drain & fill. Heck, almost impossible to even check the level, much less the color of the ATF. Best to trade the car in at 50K miles, the end of life(as defined by Volvo) for an automatic. Unless the owner buys additional years up to 100K.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

Hi Mike,

Just for you.

I called IPD this afternoon. Per IPD parts specialist, You have to flush the entire fluid, install the B4, and update the program.

It's hard for anyone to guess the outcome based on your situation. Thank you as always.

I have an IPD Bulletin IPD -PI-391
which outlines the proceedure and gives you the adaptation protocol.
My transmission shop does not recommend a flush with 180,000 - to risky to mess up clutch packs - just drain and refill - and he is willing to do the job and the adaptation.
Then after a few weeks if still issues will do the software

The dealers first want to diagnose your unit $$ to let you know all thats wrong in my opinion - before doing this proceedure which has been around for a while - most claim they are 'unaware' of it

Thats my take anyway

Hi Mike,

It sounds like you have a good plan.

Best of luck.

OK - did not do flush - Transmission guy said DO NOT flush over 100,00Km - Changed B4 servo - scanned all good runs great - no adaptation needed - and he showed me the damaged original part

So $32.00 fro IPD solves a lot of issues

Mike,

Check the fluid color using the dipstick and a white paper towel. It should be red. If it is brown and stinks, you need to at least flush the fluid.

This is an easy operation, requires about 4-5 quarts of JWS3309 (for 5 speed automatics). Just drain the fluid from the sump, measure the amount drained, and add the same amount through the dip stick hole.

The drain will get the dirtiest fluid out, especially if the engine has not run for 8 hours. Here is a tutorial:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/volvo-v70-transmission-drain-and-fill-tutorial/

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Keeping it running is better than buying new

GOT THE B4 SERVO COVER REPLACED AT A TRANNY SHOP - NEW OEM TRANS FLUID

= FLARE PROBLEM SOVED!!! NO SOFTWARE UPDATE NEEDED

A GOOD CHEAP FIX. ($35 PLUS LABOUR = WORTH IT)

The B4 servo kit is for shift flare between 2 and 3. You, as the driver, should be able to determine when it is flaring.

I assume you are not the original owner and you do not know which Volvo dealer serviced the car before you. Otherwise you could call the dealer and ask if any tranny software updates have been performed.

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Keeping it running is better than buying new

Have a print out from IPD with the Proceedure PI-391 for B4 Servo Kit
The Volvo 'Dealer' wont do unless they do a diagnostic 1st for $245 !
They claim to not know of the flare issues - or service bulletins - called 2 Volvo Service places

There is a great Tranny Shop in town - car has 300,000Km on it and he does not rec a flush - will contaminate clutch packs - just drain and fill - he will put the unit in and is familiar with adaptation - says a lot of cars have adaptation proceedures. If all else fails then will do a software update - but am trying to avoid the dealer. Will just find 20 more items that HAVE to be done - and the car runs real well

The flare is subtle so should see improvement

Thanks for inputs

A transmission shop will use a machine to 'flush' the ATF. NEVER allow a machine to do the flush, he is correct as the pressure is too high for the transmission and will move sludge to the clutch packs and destroy the internal seals.

Drain and fill works quite nicely. So does using the car's engine to do a flush, which you can do at home. If you drain and fill, two or 3 times, it works just as well as using the car's engine to do a flush.

As for the adaptation process, removing the transmission computer or disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes will accomplish that. It will take about 2-3 days of normal driving for the adaption to complete.

A 'light' flare at 300Km (200K mi), is not terrible. I suggest the battery disconnect and see what happens before running out and investing in a B4 servo.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

So then I don't have to do the complicated adaptation and watch the yellow triangle thru all the gears?

I have the KIT from FCP and am taking it to a Volvo dealership - hopefully they will install, flush, and scan and do the 'adaptation'

If they do not do adaptation can I drive it home as is ? - :45 minutes city/ hwy driving

Can we assume that the fluid level is correct and is still nice and red? If it drives correctly in the higher gears I would say that it is safe to drive, but that's just me saying that.