Hi,

I didn’t know that there was any kind of a external access mechanism on any cars, especially on the ones I have ever owned.
I wonder what prompted that innovation? Maybe putting batteries into an automatically lockable trunk made it absolutely necessary?

As far as accessing the circuitry of a car, I just remembered the other day, that the cigarette lighter’s element can be removed.
This has been a favorite place for many accessories, let alone it can be used to put IN a charge.
What I have seen, but not used, is a battery booster gadget to help start a car that has only a weak battery. I have no idea how long it takes to make a start happen?
I see some of these “hand carry” jumper boxes with it’s own battery or a large capacitor (?) being sold in Costco. I assume they connect directly onto the batteries terminals.

Some people carry these setups around in their trunks, which to me, seems illogical.
Why carry another battery that you have to maintain instead of doing that to the main battery?
Plus the end expense of having to replace its battery, at some ridiculously price, for a small package of power.
I hate to mention our “chemical derived” 9 volts and AAA batteries.
Money spent for energy there, in wattage or BTU’s, is far worse that whatever they can charge for gasoline and diesel. Compacted Convenience is very pricey.

I also have noticed on some new cars that there is an optional, or standard item depending on models, to have a power outlet in the rear of SUVs. Probably for cooling units or air pumps?

My newest vehicle is a 1993 so I’m not living under a rock, but only near the edges of one great big one?
Our planet?
(:-)

Phil

Whew is correct!

I didn’t know that the car had folding down rear seats and alike.

I like the phrase “help-I've-been-kidnapped handle.” I laughed and smiled!

You definitely had the Will power and found a way.

You might want to find out if that is a Valet key only.
Will it open anything else in the car that has an interior lock that’s never been locked either?
(:-)

Phil

Hi Chris,

Well that’s nice of you to say that a person should have some idea about his or her cars auto electrics.
Wouldn’t we all!
Since this person didn’t know that the trunk locks itself upon shutting it, that is a lesson learned too.
Some people don’t know about Valet keys either but I covered that.

And you might be right to worry about the positive cable touching something metallic. On new cars that is highly unlikely. They hide everything under a plastic shield or in a box.

Besides, if you work on a battery operated system you should disconnect the negative side first and put it back last.
The minus sign is a “clue” it’s not just used in mathematics.
This is a way I remember, so there cannot be any chance of sparks jumping from your wrenches in any tight places, no matter what you are working on.
Most Manuals fail to teach or even suggest which one cable is actually safer unless it hydrogen gases involved from a battery. A spark is a spark.
Only one cable to mess with or fuss with and it can be left almost as loose as a goose!
I’m trying to pass this idea on, if you don’t mind.

I think to insinuate that I’m careless to suggest this idea or plan, well, it is a bit harsh. IMHO

But to think he has a meter, to do things your way, is a bit far fetched for your suggestion to become conclusive or even viable.
There’s too much dependence given to ohmmeters. In some inexperienced hands limitations to its usefulness leads to confusion. Same goes for test lights. Each have their places.

IMO if a Positive cable is laying loose, how is it going to show up on an ohm meter?
It would be a very high resistance, at best, due to such a small contact point to ground. The physical size and diameter has to be considered. I doubt it’s going to laying flat and tight enough to a ground anywhere but there is Murphy’s Law of chances. I’ll give you that, in this case, to the very extreme outside.

Since I’m still living everyday learning while not depending on others for every little morsel of knowledge.
I think I have reached some level of knowledge that any circuits can be energized from ends or even middles.
If it’s a part of a whole system a power source can be put anywhere ahead of individual components drawing their polarized power. You named it as a fuse panel. You can pick and choose.

Somewhere past that, the craziness starts.
I addressed the under a rear seat battery or batteries in trunks. This being near the opposite end away from the highest amperage drawing component in systems.

BMW and Nissan and a few other makes do when their engineers get desperate.
External coolant lines around engines and some through plastic parts cracking draining out the coolant.
Painting themselves into a corner is my reference.
It is Not exactly something, I would be called safe engineering but once done and sold to the public the high water line is lowered, ever so slightly, to go unnoticed … until?


So if you don’t like my plan then reread the post that he did not remove the battery but only disconnected “A”cable. He was going to put it back on.
So, if we follow your advice he would still be sitting, say, in his camp site or on the side of the road somewhere?
Waiting for advice on a plan from an auto electric person.

Yes, as remote as we all are, he might be at home or camping?
(:)

Phil

Chris. I understand your post, but you only need to apply positive 12 volts to the proper place and another connection to ground

If you were to apply positive 12 volts to one place and negative 12 volts to another, you would be applying 24 volts over all.