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Glovebox latch, timing belt, IPD motor mount 850 1997

posted by  someone claiming to be Allen on  Tue Mar 5 13:42 CST 2002 [RELATED]

Just to let people know...Thanks to the information here, I repaired my broken latch on my glove box for the cost of the wire catch. The latch failed because the little aluminum pin which releases the latch had broken off. I removed the latch and drilled/tapped the small tab that had the pin on it. I inserted a steel set screw of the same diameter as the Al pin. I applied loctite to keep it in place and reinstalled. Works great. This site explained how to cut the catch from the outside with a hacksaw. The dealer solution is to drill out the latch from the front of the door and replace everything to the tune of >$100.00. I spent $5 for the new catch.

I also just replaced the timing belt using the Bay 13 instructions. Piece of cake!! $16.00 for the Goodyear belt, $.94 for the tensioner spacer, and about 3 hours of my time. The dealer charges $348.00 + $48 for the belt. I think the real cost is in the fancy silver sticker they put on the housing cover to record the miles.

I also installed an IPD upper engine mount in about 30 min.

Thanks for all the help.

Allen 97, 850, T-5, 71K miles.








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    Glovebox latch, Others - How did your latch break??? 850 1997

    posted by  james_a_sousa on  Wed Mar 6 13:13 CST 2002
    Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
    last visit: Thu Oct 23 18:51 CST 2014
    [RELATED]

    Allen - Good tale.

    You are the only poster that I have read that tells us what broke in the glove box latch.

    I am planning on taking mine apart for an inspection. I might apply your fix as a preventive measure.

    I was going to try drilling a small hole so I could put a pin through the hole and release the latch if it broke.

    From what I've read on this board, I wonder if a $16 timing belt is up to the task.
    --
    2 8s & 2 7s 600,000 miles total








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      Glovebox latch, Others - How did your latch break??? 850 1997

      posted by  someone claiming to be Allen on  Thu Mar 7 08:22 CST 2002 [RELATED]

      Hello James,
      I do not know when the latch broke. I bought the car that way. As for the $16 timing belt, I have purchased these belts for other cars and never had a problem. The place I buy from receives a large discount and passes it on to the consumer. They are very well versed in everything automotive. They would not sell second-rate parts. This is a first run Goodyear Gatorback series belt. I know that there is a huge mark-up at the Volvo dealer on everything. The prices even vary considerably from dealer to dealer. The ones in affluent areas charge more because they can!

      I'll keep you posted if anything changes with the belt. I put the same brand of belts on my 740 in all applications. They run much quieter than the Volvo belts that were on the car.

      Cheers,
      Allen








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    Glovebox latch, timing belt, IPD motor mount 850 1997

    posted by  VinceA on  Wed Mar 6 04:28 CST 2002
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    i have a 93 850 which i just purchased with high miles and had timing belt done by volvo for $350. AFter having it done, I noticed Bay 13 instructions, and was curious about doing it myself. Sounds like I'll be doing my own next 50,000 miles! Thanks, allen. I've got 222K.








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    Thank for sharing.... 850 1997

    posted by  someone claiming to be Mrsha on  Wed Mar 6 03:57 CST 2002 [RELATED]

    Thanks for sharing anothers great story.. now this give more confident to learn and do more...

    was their any difficulty that you ran in during the timing job that we need to know.???


    thanks..








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      Thank for sharing.... 850 1997

      posted by  someone claiming to be Allen on  Wed Mar 6 08:45 CST 2002 [RELATED]

      The timing belt job was about a 5 on a scale of 1-10 degree of difficulty for me. 10 being a clutch and tranny job on an Isuzu diesel pick-up years ago. 1 is checking the oil.

      The only thing that frustrated me was I spent way too much time worrying about getting the belt on the exact tooth on the exhaust cam gear and trying to keep the tension between the exhaust and intake gears. I discovered that there will be a little slack in the belt between the two gears when the marks are lined up and you have not put the tensioner back in. This is true even with the bungee cord required in the Bay 13 instructions. The tensioner takes all of the slack out and everything is fine. I changed the order a bit. 1.) I put the tensioner back in. 2.) Waited for it to expand. 3.) Installed the new spacer. 4.) Rotated the engine two full revs. 5.) Checked the position of the alignment marks. All good, re-installed everything else in the Bay 13 order. Bay 13 says to rotate the crank 2 turns as the tensioner is expanding. I think that you may be more likely to skip a tooth without the tension than with. Maybe I am reading the directions incorrectly. I also put in a new serpentine belt at the same time. That was like a 5 min. exercise.

      I did not experience a problem with working the old timing belt off around the rubber stand-off behind the crank pulley. That part went quickly.

      I will let you know how things go as the car ages. It only has 70K now. I have an 87, 740 GLE with over 175K. I did the shocks and struts on it before Christmas. One of the strut cartridges was rusted into the strut tube. No way to get it out. I trashed the whole tube and got a used assy. from a junkyard for $70. I installed the new Bilstein touring strut cartridge and my rotor. The car rides great! Good cornering also. Got the struts and shocks from Shox.com. Great prices and fast service. Better price than IPD.

      Cheers,
      Allen







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