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CV Joint Replacement? 850 1995

After hearing/feeling a slight grind when making sharp left low speed turns I checked my CV boots and the driver's side might have a small tear because I found some grease (need to check in the daylight with the car up to confirm it isn't excess from the suspension). How hard is a CV replacement? I've done them on my Jeep, but have a Factory Service Manual for the Jeep. Recommendations for the shaft? Good shops in Charlotte, NC if I decide to have it done? I couldn't find any tech info on Bay 13. Opinions on AllDataDIY? It is decent for Jeeps, but don't know about Volvos. Thanks!








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    CV Joint Replacement? 850 1995

    You can do it into it and doing it and learn about it... nothing others can do that we can not do ourself... take some patience and time but all problem will solve .....

    please keep post how it turn out and how long it take we all learn here..

    I know you get it done and save some big $$$$$... own these car we must willing to learn and get into the repair...

    shop rate $130 per hours.. we can learn we must learn we have to learn..

    if we screw up than we can allways tow it to the shop....

    good luck....








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    CV Joint Replacement? 850 1995

    I just replaced the boots on the passenger side of my 100K mile 850T. It was a messy job and at one point I considered buying reman half shafts to make the job easier but when it comes to a $12 needed part vs. $250 for parts I didn't need, I opted for the boots.

    The hard part was freeing the axle from the hub. The manual says to remove the axle nut (36mm socket) and tap the axle shaft free. It was more along the lines of break a 1/2" ratchet, break a 1/2" breaker bar, buy a 3/4" breaker bar, look for a 36mm 3/4" drive socket, use a 1 7/16 with a four foot cheater pipe push/pull like hell to get the thing loose, then whack the axle like hell to get the shaft loose.

    Thanks to the Brick Board I was able to complete the job. Freeing that axle shaft was done by loosening the axle nut seven or eight turns, inserting an extension into the 36mm 1/2" drive socket and pounding on the end (it will get ruined) until it moves. The factory uses loctite when they build them and they torque the nut to 89 ft. lbs. plus 60 degrees. From there it was almost easy.

    To rebuild the joint you have to spread a circlip and tap the joint free. My broke and I had to improvise the "tap" out procedure. Uggh.

    In the end, I am glad I did it myself. Not only did I save some cash, I learned a lot and now I own a 3/4" breaker bar.

    Good luck.







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