Hi all. 1995 854 Turbo.

The boot on my driver's side outer cv joint split open, all the grease was thrown, and the joint developed a click. I decided to replace the halfshaft with a rebuilt unit that arrived this week.

I am trying to get the darn thing out with no luck. I've also broken the cardinal rule of auto repair - I've ended up worse than when I started.

Problem 1:
The Haynes manual says to tap the end of the axle in about half an inch to free it from the hub. I banged on the thing forever, it didn't budge. Getting tired of the "soft mallet" approach, I wacked it with a hammer a few times, and you guessed it, damaged a thread. Not thinking, I decided to try to put it back together and a trashed the threads on the axle nut. Using a file I was able to fix the slightly damaged thread on the axle, but the nut is now trashed, and the nut from the new halfshaft is a different style. So, I am forced to take it apart.

Problem 2:
I decided I would continue on the steps and remove the ball joint. The bolt / nut came out easily, but I cannot get the ball joint out of the socket. I worked at it for over two hours with pry bars, punches, etc. In 2 hours it has come about half way out. I've been fairly careful of the boot, but all bets are off at this point. Any ideas on how to get this thing off? I've tried prying apart the socket, but I can't get anything of a decent size in there, and smaller screw drivers, etc. don't seem to do the job. Any tricks?

Thanks for any advice on this job.

-Dave

Thanks for the advice. I completed the job this afternoon. I walked over to the local Ace Hardware and picked up a 4lb sledge. I placed a 28 mm socket with 3 inch extension over the axle stub and gave it about 50 to 60 good wacks. It finally broke loose. Socket is okay, but it put a flare on the end of the extension. Also, you guys are correct - the ball joint does just pop out once you get the strut to the correct angle. I found the best angle was with the wheel on and the car on the ground. It just popped right off. Good to know, since I cut the boot during my struggle with it yesterday :-(

Getting the axle out of the transmission was a little tricky. I got a prybar on one side and a long screwdriver on the other and leveraging both at the same time popped it out.

If I had to do the job again tomorrow I could do it in 2 hours without destorying my core or my ball joint, so I guess I'll chalk this up to learning.

Thanks,
Dave

Okay I just did this thing myself. Here is my suggestion:

Get the ball joint back into the socket (you can leave the bolt out for now), put the wheel on and lower the car to the ground.

Find a socket that you can spare, maybe destroy, and a short extension that you will destroy. Put the socket over the axle end and whack the extension with a hammer. The biggest hammer you have and can control. It will take a lot to move that thing.

Something I tried, not sure if it contributed at all the thing finally moved via the hammer, was to chuck a broken drift into a hammer drill. I that ride against the end of the shaft for a about 30 seconds. The hammer action might have helped.

It is easy to get frustrated at this stage, but it will move. The factory used locktite when they built that thing.

Oh yes, watch your hand when hammering. Of the 100 or so whacks I gave it, the axle that is, I did take one the finger.

When it finally moves jack the car up and the ball joint will move much easier.

Good luck!

Any idea what type locktite or cement is used? I know red locktite requires a little heat then will come off easily. Would this apply here?
--
Happy Motoring, Erwin in Memphis, '95855t

I recently explained this proceedure in detail in another thread, same exact question so please search for it further down the page or so. It was 1-2 weeks ago.
The Haynes manual is misleading (Haynes sucks actually) as it takes ALOT more than a little tapping.