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Heater motor resistor 850 1996

So, this is really an a/c problem, as have been all my recent posts, and by the looks of it, a lot of others as well............

I have dye in the a/c system, and I am trying to 'uncover' the evap to look at it with black light.

Reading previous posts, I need to remove heater motor resistor.

So, I removed 'knee bolster' - I assume the piece of trim under the glove box (right hand drive UK spec if it makes a difference), and the plastic trim up the side of the centre console.

I can clearly see where the blower motor is, and the white-ish plastic box the evap, etc, is housed in. I can also see what must be the condensation drain tube.

But where is the heater resistor? It must be staring me in the face!! I assume I dont need to remove glove box just to do this inspection.

I know what heater resistors look like - well in 'older' cars. Is the one in this vehicle a 'computerised' black plastic box type thing??

Haynes totally avoids the subject!!

Thanks,

Kevin

ps - phoned my local dealers today - they wont read fault codes for me, even for a price! The a/c off, REC lights had flashed before. BUT, looking at codes, all electrical faults - doesnt seem to be code for 'mechanical fault' which I assume low gas is.

And why cant we buy freon at our local stores??

Any point using a system sealer??








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    Heater motor resistor 850 1996

    I had just had to replace the resistor and I needed to remove the lower panel and knee brace, plus the glove box. I was replacing the glove box latch anyways but this gave me the best way to see and remove the resistor.








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    Heater motor resistor 850 1996

    If ECC, it's a larger looking device than your typical MCC resistor but in almost the same location either way. It's too the right of the blower motor. The ECC resistor has 2 plugs going into it and looks somewhat like a control unit. Both types are held in by one small torx screw.
    If you still can't see it, you can also remove the blower motor and look through that opening but the resistor opening is closer to the evap.
    Look towards öhe very bottom of the evap very carefully if the dye isn't obvious as it often leaks at the bottom and is sometimes difficult to see with the evap still installed.
    In most US states, one can STILL buy 134a and add it themselves but it's possible that that's not legal in the UK? I havent read where anyone's claiming success with sealants so far.
    As for ECC fault codes, if the ECC unit isn't flashing its LEDs when you start the car (indicating electrical fault(s)) then you wouldn't have any faults that are effecting ECC operation and it's likely mechanical as you've surmized, like it's low on freon.







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