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Adding your own R134A freon 850 1996

I've got a slow leak in the air conditioning system. Its close to the end of summer and I don't feel like spending large sums of $$$ to fix it. I'm thinking of going down to the locale auto supply store and buy a can of R134A freon and a hose and add one can of freon. I use to do this with other cars that had the R12 freon with a sight glass. I'd just add until the bubbles in the fluid going through the sight glass were gone.

With no sight glass on this R134A system, how is it done? Any recommendations?








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    Adding your own R134A freon 850 1996

    you need a set of 134 guages

    R134a is cheap compared to the old R12.

    Attach guage to both high and low side. If you have a (+) pressure, you don't have to vacuum the system down. Start AC measure pressure and put correct amount R134A back in for correct temp high/low reading.

    You should fix the leak before all R134A leaks out. If it does and your system get a (-) pressure in it when it is on, it can suck air in from the atmosphere and damage your system....good luck








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      Adding your own R134A freon 850 1996

      Second Son,

      Please don't encourage a DIYer with no obvious A/C knowledge, or experience, to charge a system.

      If you know anything about a Volvo 850 A/C system, you would know that it does not have a high-side port, so your recomendations about the gauge set are too general.

      I do commend you in recommending that the owner should have the leak repaired. Not having it repaired will not only damage the A/C system, it will damage the environment.








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        Adding your own R134A freon - Update 850 1996

        Well it to DAMN hot here in sunny AZ to go with AC and I don't want to spend the big bucks to fix it just now, so the environment will just have to wait. I suppect all you smokers never consider the environmental consequences when lighting up ;>)

        I purchased a Interdynamics 2-way R-134A Retrofit, Charging & Measuring Kit at my local AutoZone store + a dash outlet test thermometer all for just over $40 with tax.

        The low pressure fill port is on the right hand side of the engine compartment at up front. I threaded on the gage to the end of the hose from the kit and without the engine running (and therefore also no AC running) I read a pressure of 132 psi. I turned on the engine and then the AC to max and then read a pressure reading of 25 psi.

        The gage has 4 zones on it: 1 = green 0 to 25, 2 = blue 25 to 45, 3 = yellow 45 to 65, and 4 = red 65 to 200 psi. The instructions for the kit says "green - may require additional refrigerant. blue - system has proper amount of refrigerant. yellow - system is prossibly overcharged, do not add refrigerent. red - system has a problem other than low refrigerant, do not add refrigerent.

        Prior to starting this project, I measure the vent temperature with my test thermometer as I drove home from the store (5 minuite drive). It read 82 degrees. The outside temperature is 105 degrees.

        So with the AC system producing 82 degree air and a pressure reading of 25 psi (just on the edge between add and having a proper charge, I elected to add 1 12-oz. can fo R-134a. After 15 minutes of running the engine and AC the can finally emptied itself. It was in the upright position. The test thermometer reading went from 82 degrees to 55 degrees. At that point I took off the empty can and attached the gage back to the low pressure port. I had a reading of 45 psi, or at the upper edge between blue and yellow. I turned off the AC system and the gage went to 135 psi. (I suspect the system goes to an equilibrium position since there is no low pressure side when the system is not compressing the fluid).

        This was easy to do. The hose fitting is quick and easy to attach to the low pressure port unlike the old R-12 system which you have to thread on. When I was introducing the R-134A into my system, I first let a small amount of the gas come out the end of the filler hose prior to and as I was installing it onto the low pressure port. This way I was not pushing outside air into my system that was within the hose when I first started adding refrigerant. In about a week I will update you all on the results.
        --
        Jim - 1996 Platium Limited Edition, tower brace, hitch, tinting 101K miles








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          Adding your own R134A freon - Update 850 1996

          Well I'm very pleased with just adding the one can of freon. Vent temperatures are 40 degrees. Air Conditioning so nice in sunny AZ!
          --
          Jim - 1996 Platium Limited Edition, tower brace, hitch, tinting 101K miles








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          Adding your own R134A freon - Update 850 1996

          Jim,

          I used the same system you used for your car during early spring to fix my leak problem. The only thing different was that I added an AC system sealant, it consisted of 2 cans- one for metal leaks (evaporator, etc) and rubber leaks (hoses-I guess). So far, so good. You may want to try one of those sealant systems next time your R134a runs out.








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      but...... 850 1996

      There is NO high side port. The high side can be read with Volvos scan tool but the average DIY guy can't read high side pressure.
      The only thing you can read is low side pressure and with those tap-a-can setups, you're guessing. The system only holds 1.65lbs so with the 1 lb cans, you can easily put too much in and that's as bad as too little, still won't cool well.








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    Adding your own R134A freon 850 1996

    By someone that has an evacuation machine to capture it correctly, then add the correct amount of the R and oil per the specs.







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