Geoff

About twenty years ago a friend of mine drilled the rotors of his bike - he died the first time he applied the brakes at high speed. Please don't even consider - someone may be travelling in the opposite direction.

peter

Sure . . . go ahead.

I suggest using a 3" hole saw bit and space the holes at 3" intervals around the centerline of the wear surface of the rotor.

I think that if you follow my suggestion, you will greatly reduce your unsprung weight (improving handling and ride) and your brakes will never overheat (they'll never even get warm!).

Of course, as with any rotor drilling, you will be reducing the contact surface area, so in most stopping situations, you may notice a slight decrease in breaking ability (whether you notice, or not, will depend on how experienced a driver you are). In dire braking situations, however, (say, at 120 MPH towards a brick wall), you will notice the difference in braking--or, at least your relatives will.

Good luck.

PS--be sure you follow my dimensions exactly, otherwise you will not save any money.

check out www.newandusedvolvoparts.com i think the set is about 130.00 for 2 cross drilled rotors and pads.

dan

I put the Zimmerman Crossed drilled front and rear on my T-5R. Zero Problems after 5000 miles. I got them very cheap from http://www.eeuroparts.com/ Call them and talk to them. Do Not order online! I used stock volvo pads with the shims on the rear. And yes, it does matter which way the arrow faces on the rear shims. Violent shaking otherwise. The main and most important thing in preventing warping is torque your lugs in the correct pattern to exactly 84 ftlbs. And yes, if you try to do this yourself to save $20.00, you are being cheap and sacrificing your own safety as well as the rest of us who might drive near you. Also, if you do not like noise from your brakes, do not use cross drilled. They make a somewhat loud whirring noise when braking due to the holes. Good Luck in what ever you decide....

Good article hear on cross drilling and why it may induce warping,
etc. and is not all its cracked up to be:

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/brakes.html

One good point in the above article is you have to know how much
material is safe to remove. So, size and number of holes have to
be calculated based on rotor size (no formulas given, though).

Cross drilling your self, or even having crossed drilled rotors is a mistake in my opinion. Why accelerate the lfe if the rotor, why enable it to warp faster (easier)? Just my opinion...

why even put those in your car? esp the rear?