The results are in on the analysis of my engine oil, but could someone explain the significance of the following readings:

Spectrochemical Analysis (ppm)
Iron: 5
Chromium: 1
Lead: 0
Copper: 5
Tin: 0
Aluminum: 3
Nickel: 0
Silver: 0
Silicon: 11
Boron: 1
Sodium: 7
Magnesium: 25
Calcium: 3651
Barium: 7
Phosphorus: 1245
Zinc: 1434
Molybendum: 0
Titanium: 0
Vanadium: 0
Potassium: 0

Physical Properties
Fuel (%Vol.): <1
VIS@ 40C cSt: N/A
VIS@ 100C cSt: 15.08
Water (%): 0
Soot/Solids (%Vol.): N/A
Glycol: NEG

Additional Tests
TBN: 6.92
OXID: 12.0
NITR: 14.0

Thanks for any assistance.

--ed850

I concur with the rest of the guys here. Boy, your TBN sure got beat up…hard city driving. You can see this in your Silicon reading too; lots of dust/dirt.

Just so you have a point of reference, I have a S70 T5 (high-pressure turbo), live in Fresno (hot/dirty summers). I run Amsoil 10W-30 (ATM) and the Volvo/Mann cartridge-type filter. I change the filter every 6 months (about 4-5K miles), top up, and run the oil for 1 year (around 10K miles). Based on oil analysis experience, my oil, even in my turbo, can easily go 10K miles under hot, stop and go driving.

Understanding your climate, I would run the Amsoil filter with their 10W-30 (ATM) oil. Change the filter at 6 months (or earlier if your mileage exceeds 12,500 miles) then change at a yearly interval. I’ve been doing this on my Jeep Grand Cherokee for the last 4 years/approx 90K miles with zero problems and zero oil consumption. In my Volvo, I run the oil for about 8 months and change it based on mileage. It burns about ¼ quart of oil in between filter changes. This is very low and acceptable for a turbo.
--
1999 S70 T5

I use K&N Air Filter. Does that have any effect on the dust/dirt contamination in the oil?

This is hotly debated. But, I use a K&N and have much lower Si levels than you. My last analyese (on 7,500 mile oil) was at 3 ppm. And, I think that Fresno (San Joaquin Valley Air Basin) has higher dust and PM-10 levels than the L.A. basin. My last analyses on my Jeep Grand Cherokee (on 24,033 mile old oil) had an Si level of 17 ppm. This vehicle also runs a K&N. Go figure...
--
1999 S70 T5

Ed-
In non-turbo, you should be able to change the filter at 7500 miles/6 months and the AME at 15K/1 year. And yes, I agree with Paul that you'd get even better service out of xW-30.
AMSOIL and the Texas Dept of Public Safety did a field test. AMSOIL 5W-30 and SDF oil filters were put on 5 Crown Vic cruisers. No oil changes were performed during the 24,000 mile test period. Oil filters were changed at 12,500 miles and a qt of oil added. Oil analysis showed things fine, and saved money to boot.

I can't make much of an educated guess without knowing the amount of time/miles on the oil, the type of oil and of course the starting viscosity is important.

The wear metals are very low, but without knowing if the oil was in for 100 miles or 10,000 miles.....

I can guess by the TBN, oxidation (% or number?), nitration(% or number?) that maybe the oil has over 5,000 miles if those are %'s then for sure 7500 miles + (making the wear number very good)

If the oil started at 10W-30 it has thickened - but is it a 15W-40, or???

Funny but the additive package numbers look like Amsoil.

--
http://www.fidalgo.net/~brook4/oilslubesfilters.html

Oops, my mistake. Here's a bit more info for you: the oil was changed around 3,000 miles on an engine with 93000 on it, and yes, it is a 15w 40 Amsoil synthetic. Thanks for the help.

OK That helps. Your viscosity is dead on for a 15W-40 and the ox and nit are numbers so they look good. TBN is falling - you maybe do a lot of city driving? How long (in months has the oil been in?) I would say keep driving on the oil, because the numbers look good, but don't be afraid to open the engine up on an open road! :)

Why are you using a 15W-40? (nothing wrong, but you can use a 10W-30)
--
http://www.fidalgo.net/~brook4/oilslubesfilters.html

Wow, one's driving environment can be read from an oil analysis? Yes, all I do is city driving. Stop and go with plenty of heat here in L.A. Lots of high speed driving also, and sudden stops. Even took it on a trip to Vegas.

I'm not exactly sure how long in months the oil has been used, but I reckon it's under six months, even safe to say around five months. Why I use 15w 40 is because of my mechanic's recommendation--this, of course, when I was using dino oil, and my engine was consuming 5w 30 Chevron oil. That, and it's also cheaper than the 10w 30 variety. Would 10w 30 be more economical fuel wise? I'm hoping to extend my interval for at least 10,000 miles with Amsoil oil. Would 10w 30 perform better with my application?

Thanks for your time and advise.

City driving is very hard on any motor oil. Sounds like marketing hype but this is true.

Silly question that I should have asked before which Amsoil 15W-40 are you using, PCO or AME? Both are Diesel engine oils, suitable for use in gasoline engines.

For long oil changes in a gas car, the 10W-30 is rated 25K miles max, and the 15W-40 3 times Volvo's severe serice oil change interval: about 15K miles. Both should be changed at 6 month intervals, regardless of mileage. Also, at 5K intervals remove and replace oil filter and top up with fresh oil.

10W-30 will use less fuel, maybe 1 mpg or so. (as will 0W-30, and 5W-30). I'm not sure why your car was consuming oil at such low mileage. How much oil did/does it consume? (Did it slow with the synthetic?)
--
http://www.fidalgo.net/~brook4/oilslubesfilters.html

It's AME. 6 months interval max, you say. You think I should stick with Mann oil filter as opposed to switching to Amsoil? Also, when reading the oil level on the stick, should it be in between the marks, or precisely at the top mark?

I don't know the exact reason, but I reckon my engine was consuming oil due to the following: Chevron dino oil 5w 30 doesn't perform well at long 5k interval; I tend to high rev a lot when I need that extra kick, not to mention my constant high speed driving; and the hot weather and city driving, as you've mentioned, can wear the oil down to start consumption in my case.

With Amsoil Synthetic, I was expecting no oil consumption at all; however, there's a bit of it around 4k and is evident at 5k. Mind you, it's not significant, and not as significant as Chevron, but it seems to be a normal occurance with our engine, perhaps?

I missed something, is your car a turbo? And how many miles on the oil now?

No oil stops all consumption. In most cases, in a mechanically sound engine, with synthetic oil consumption will be decreased. For sure volatility will be less. BUT with the first few crankcases of synthetic oil, as the oil cleans varnish and deposits consumption will actually increase, because this stuff will make it past the rings and be burned along with some oil. When this process is complete you'll know it when the oil level just stays put.

Mann filter is fine but don't keep it on longer than 4K miles or so. To swao filters: allow the car to cool and the oil to settle, then just remove and replace the filter (I like to prime the filter with fresh oil) - then top the oil up to about mid-mark on the dipstick. (I DO like to keep my oil near the top of the mark NOT over - I figure the more oil the better - as long as not overfilled!)
--
http://www.fidalgo.net/~brook4/oilslubesfilters.html

Believe it or not, my car is just normally aspirated, even though I treat like a turbo sometimes.

At the moment, I've got Amsoil 15w 40 in the engine at 2,500 miles. I'm thinking about replacing it at the end of December to have a fresh start on a 6 month oil change interval with Amsoil oil filter. Any experience with Amsoil's filter. Also, I might just switch to 10w 30. What do you think?

Also, I'm thinking about replacing my tranny fluid with Amsoil ATF. Do you recommend? With it, what would be my ATF change interval? Currently, I'm flushing the tranny every 20k with regular ATF.

Amsoil Oil filters are specifically made by Baldwin Corp. for Amsoil. The filter is top notch construction with a really well engineered by-pass valve and excellent filter media. That said, there is nothing wrong with using the Mann filter and changing at 3-4K mile intervals.

Your choice of weight. Volvo recommends 10W-30 or 15W-40 for your climate.

Amsoil Universal ATF can easily go 3X the recommended change interval. Since Volvo doesn't specify on the ATF, I would say no problem doing 80,000-100,000 miles. If you don't feel comfortable with this, go 60,000 miles (3X your current)
--
http://www.fidalgo.net/~brook4/oilslubesfilters.html

Good point on the Mann filter. Since I've got a few left in the garage, I might just finish it off within the 6 month oil change interval that I've decided to adopt. I'll more than likely order 10w 30 for January since it'll be a little more fuel efficient and it's good for more miles than the 15w 40 option. I'll also check out Amsoil's ATF and have it analyzed for peace of mind. Thanks for your time, and thanks again for all your help. --ed850.

I'm not a tribologist, nor an engineer, but I have been regularly following the "oil forum" on "bobistheoilguy.com."

The wear metals look really great, very low. This oil is loaded up with additives - good.

The oil is now a 40 weight.(I don't know if that's what you initially installed)

I haven't had that good of an analysis on my three Volvos - yet, with any of the 30 weights.

Curiously what oil (brand, wieght, etc.) is it? How long has it been in, and what are you filters - oil & air?
--
92-944, 94-944, 97-960 - Amsoil lubes throughout,, Silverstar headlights, Green Diamond Tires

Amsoil 15w 40 Synthetic Oil
Changed around 3,000 miles on an engine with 93,000 miles on it
Oil filter is Mann
Air filter is K&N

Looking to see if I can extend the interval for economical reason. Otherwise, it's back to Shell Rotell Full Synthetic 5w 40. Thanks for the help.

>boysarge; Noticed in your "oil"response that you listed these tires.
>How are these? Handling,wear,wet,etc?Type?
>Thanks,whilst.
--
whilst

I like em. I have them on all three cars.
Green Diamond "Icelanders" the all weather traction tire.

They are not wimpy squishy tires - they are a good handling tire.
They do not wear out like some "snow" tires.
They handle as well as any of the rest of em.
They aren't noisy.
They perform as advertised.
The tread pattern appears to be identical to Continental branded snow tires.

We got them because we were looking for an all season type tire that could give our rear wheel drive Volvos an advantage in snow/ice. We didn't want to have extra set of wheels hanging around because we're running out of storage space as it is.

I found out about these tires on the "web" and subsequently purchased one set, then another set from "Greendiamonddirect.com" in Wisconsin, internet sales through Mike Bednorski. Greendiamonddirect became a Brickboard sponsor for awhile. We waited two months for a set for the 960, but it was worth it. Tragically and suddenly Mike Bednorski passed away a couple of months back.

Price/value/performance from now on all of my tires will be Green Diamonds. here in Chicago some years you don't need snow tires, other years you need them for months on end. These are really good tires. From what I understand Nokian Tire this year has a licensing agreement with Greendiamond and they use the same embedded carbide granule technology for some of their tires, but they only sell those particular Nokians in Europe. The tires on my cars were made in Sweden.

If you are interested visit "greendiamonddirect.com" or "greendiamondna.com" and you can call Jeff Barlow or Tom Murray at 1-800-428-8696, 607-733-7156 or 607-481-1194. I got my last set from them. They are in New York state. My last transaction was completed by Jeff & Tom.
--
92-944, 94-944, 97-960 - Amsoil lubes throughout,, Silverstar headlights, Green Diamond Tires