My Air Pump (blower motor) just failed. I observed "check engine" light. Went to local auto parts store & was able to get a free code read (P0410 - 2ndary air injection system fault).

I found instructions at Bay13 to remove the air pump. It was shorted. I connected supply exhaust hoses to the air pump together for the short-term, until I get replacement. My gas mileage has dropped from 22-23 (mostly stop & go) to ~18mpg (sucks!!), but performance is UP (good!).

My question is: (sorry for prelude)

How often do these fail? Do they fail is certain environments? I understand that usual cause is the check valve sticking (which causes moisture build-up - water gets to blower/air pump >> failure).

Dealer wants $380 for air pump, $125 for valve. I found place that will do $260 for pump, $75 for valve.

Co-worker has found junk yard that has pump for $75. I am afraid that it may be bad or ready to die due to same issue on car it came out of? Should I buy new or used??

Thanks,

PW

Take the used pump and power it. If it runs without noise buy it. They either fail electrically (won't run) or mechanically (noises). Since the access to the pump is easy I would take my chances with a used one.
BTW, when you say your pump was shorted, does it mean your pump would not run because of motor burn out or the pump relay (external) is gone?
Good luck.

My '98 V70 AWD had the pump and check valve replaced at about 26K miles under warranty. This past weekend, at 61K miles, it started making noises like something was hitting the vanes. I removed the pump and disassembled it by removing the rivets and separating the outer part of the housing. I found no water in it and nothing to make any noise. Some Triflow on the bearings as best as I could reach them (how do you get the fan off the shaft??), reassembly, and now it works ok. I avoided the dreaded CEL which I am sure would have been coming up soon if the pump seized or something. One thing I have noticed, the pump doesn't come on everytime you start up a cold engine. Maybe I am just more in tuned with the operation at this point...

Since yours had shorted, I would check your relay for the air pump as well (its in the rougly kidney shaped relay box next to the fuse panel in the engine compartment). My relay stuck once and almost burned out my air pump, but I caught it before the pump went bad (the relay stuck on, and the pump just ran and ran, and I am sure would have run itself to death).

Just an extra $0.02!

Thanks,
Gordon
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Two '98-S70s and One '90-745. My First Car: '74 244DL Gone But Remembered!

er, the extra $0.02 refers to the advice, not the relay... the relay from Volvo is about $25.

heh.
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Two '98-S70s and One '90-745. My First Car: '74 244DL Gone But Remembered!

This is a common problem as I have been told. I had to replace mine at 80k on my 98 S70. Would not put in a used one.