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Rotor Replacement 850 1994

posted by  someone claiming to be pssstue on  Tue Jan 7 13:37 CST 2003 [RELATED]

This will be the first brake job i am about to do and was wondering what tools would make my job easier. I plan on bleeding my brakes and replacing the rotors so other than a bleeder, my socket set and torque wrench what am I in for. I am on my way to the Bay 13 site cause I cannot stand black and white pics in Haynes.
While i am at it, does anybody know anything (i.e. positive or negative comments) about slotted rotors such as Tar Ox, Powerslot, KVR gas slotted, or any others. I have read around quite a bit and many forums but have not gotten a definitive answer as to what to install. The replacement is for the fronts, I have 15" Cetus, drive rather aggressively, no track, not modded, but like to stop in a timely fashion. If anyone has any more questions post em and I will eagerly help you help me. Thanks a lot. -Stu.
'94 854t 104k/mi








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    Rotor Replacement 850 1994

    posted by  danielflading on  Wed Jan 8 15:58 CST 2003
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    i have zimmerman cross drilled rotors with mintex racing pads on the front, and they are a geat improvement over the stock set up. I will also put them on the rear when the time comes.

    cost about 130.00 ups to my door from www.newandusedvolvoparts.com








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    Rotor Replacement 850 1994

    uid 8400's pic
    posted by  FFF88 on  Wed Jan 8 09:51 CST 2003
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    A Basic Metric socket set/Allen wrench set and a torque wrench should suffice. I put Zimmerman Cross drilled on mine with OEM pads, lots of grease, and the shims in the back. They work excellent and have 0 squeel. However, cross drilled rotors make a somewhat annoying whirring noise when braking. You can only here it with the windows down and quiet. But, sometimes it bothers me. You do get used to it. I think the only reason for not using stock is strictly appearance. Which is why i did it. I also painted my rotors hats, and calipers and holders. Looks cool. My old rotors just came off by hand. Good luck and remember to torque your lugs in a star pattern to 81.18 ft lbs each. Don't guess or you will warp the rotors. Also, do not overtighten the 10mm alignment bolt. Just snug it up....
    --
    95' T-5R - K&N, TME springs, Strut Brace, Bilstein TC's, Cross drilled rotors, Red Calipers, SS Brake lines, 215/45-17's








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    Rotor Replacement 850 1994

    posted by  someone claiming to be Ray N. on  Wed Jan 8 05:13 CST 2003 [RELATED]

    I use this bleeder:

    http://www.motiveproducts.com/

    It works very well.

    We own an 850 and S70. I've done pads and front rotors
    on both cars. Pretty easy following Bay 13 instructions.
    Hardest part is getting old rotor off. Make sure the
    10mm bolt is off then you may have to hit it with a hammer.
    On our 850, the rotor fell off; on the S70 it was rusted
    on and an 8lb sledge was needed to "tap" it off after
    smaller hammers failed to do the job. I'd also recommend
    safety glasses while messing with the external spring/clip
    (it can fly off).

    I use OEM parts and often purchase from www.volvoparts.com.







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    Rotor Replacement 850 1994

    posted by  Moregolf on  Tue Jan 7 17:47 CST 2003
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    last visit: Tue Apr 22 07:55 CST 2008
    [RELATED]

    Brake job is fairly easy, about an hour to do it fronts only. Slotted, IMHO, are a waste of time, warp faster, and are more expensive. I did OEM fronts, and bled for about $130 total, incl bleeding... Don't know all the tools, but I had them and I don't have an extensive tool set.








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      Rotor Replacement 850 1994

      posted by  someone claiming to be Dave on  Thu Jan 9 07:54 CST 2003 [RELATED]

      I recently changed my front rotors on my 1995 850 and it was fairly straight forward if you follow the instructions at Bay 13. One thing that held me up for hours was that I needed an odd-size hex (I think it was 7mm) to complete the job and most hex wrench kits sold in the U.S. don't include this size for some reason. Make sure you have this before you start the job or you'll be driving to every hardware store looking for one while your car waits for you.

      - Dave








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        Rotor Replacement 850 1994

        posted by  someone claiming to be pssstue on  Thu Jan 9 12:13 CST 2003 [RELATED]

        thanks for all the tips you guys. I think i can manage after your replies, looking at the bay 13 site and a bit of Ozbrick. Now I am going to pay a little attention to exactly which rotors i want.
        I am not completely sold on the OEM choice although the final decision might come down to the level of noise that come off of OEM vs. slotted or x-drilled. I am leaning toward slotted because of a lot of remarks about x-drilled warping and cracking (more often than slotted) and pairing them with sSteel lines. Am I correct when i state that it is slotted that CAN be resurfaced while as x-drilled CANNOT? Okay that's all thats on my mind. You all have a great weekend -Stu.








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          Rotor Replacement 850 1994

          posted by  someone claiming to be Ray N. on  Fri Jan 10 04:55 CST 2003 [RELATED]

          I think you would have to ask the manufacturer if they could
          be resurfaced. Volvo OEM rotors should not be resurfaced (they
          say replace them) and they are solid -- so youd'd think they
          could be machined. The metallurgy may be the issue.

          The solid brake lines sound like a good idea. The brake feel
          is a bit spongy (I think). I don't recall if I posted this earlier
          but this tool makes bleeding the system a snap (and does the job
          well):

          http://www.motiveproducts.com/

          I think you'll want it if replacing the brake lines to get a really
          good fluid flush. If you do use the two-person bleed method of pumping
          the brakes I've heard you should be careful not to push the brake
          pedal too far down past normal operation position (something
          about a seal).

          Finally, after replacing the pads they need some time to seat.
          The OEM pads take quite a few stops til they get back to having
          a strong bite. I just mention this so you don't think something is
          amiss after the job is done and the car doesn't stop very well (on
          the first few stops I could not even get ABS to engage after my
          recent OEM pad change).







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