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You will be hearing alot from me in the coming weeks since I just procured and 850 for myself, and a V70 for my mother.
First off, I would like to thank all those who've intelligently contributed to this forum. The wealth of info has been tremendously valuable.
In additon to this forum, Bay 13, and a Haynes manual, I have purchased a CD manual off eBay, and will be procuring an Auterra OBD2 reader, so I'm just about ready to go.
I purchased my 850 off eBay, and drove it from VA to CA.
In that time, I had a couple of (turbo related) hoses break and slow me, but other than that, I got the opportunity to get to know the car a bit.
For this topic, I have some questions relating to the Heating / Cooling system in my 850.
I am getting that antifreeze odor when we start the car, and thanks to this forum, I am concluding that the heater core needs to be replaced (wish I had read that topic BEFORE I drove away).
Also, whenst leaving Texas in 34 degree weather, I noticed the thermostat not coming up to the 3 oclock position... I have since noticed that just 2 or 3 times concluding that is just beginning to stick in the open position, and that is time to replace that with the 90 degree version.
Since I already had hoses break, and since I am replacing the Heater Core and Thermostat (requiring the draining of Coolant), I figured I may as well flush the system and replace the radiator and expansion tank hoses while I was at it.
Again, thanx to this forum and a very funny post, I have concluded that the Volvo coolant is worth the premium they charge.
So, here are my questions;
1. FLUSHING THE SYSTEM
Any thing I do in this regard, of course, would be prior to installing any of the components aforementioned.
I had planned on draining the system, Filling it with Distilled Water, and running the car for a few, then draining again.
I wanted to know if I should, or could add some kind of radiator chemical flush liquid in with the distilled water, and what would be recommended.
If I did use some kind of flushing agent, I would again drain, and refill with distilled water once more and run again, just to be anal and safe.
It is after this distilled-water-only running that I would drain and then tackle component replacement (therefore, any liquid spills related to heater core replacement would be mostly water anyway).
2. HEATER HOSES?
After looking around parts sites for hoses, I also see Heater Hoses listed in the same category.
I am presuming that these are the hoses attached to the Heater Core.
Can someone verify or correct me on this, - and -
Should I replace these whilst I am doing all the rest? (Hoses are about $28 each, but I don't know if access to change them will be simple or difficult, since Haynes is not very detailed on this).
3. GASKETS?
I know the thermostat needs one, which will come with the kit.
Are there any others I should be aware of and order?
4. ECT SENSOR??
I have read the Bay 13 instructions for replacing the thermostat, and in tandem with that are instrucions for replacing the ECT Sensor.
A) Is this an automatic replacement when one replaces the thermostat?? or
Does one only replace this if fault codes are showing?
B) If I do not replace this now, and need to later, is it a must that the coolant be drained and or that the thermostat housing "cap" be removed for access?
C) Furhtermore, I can not find this part at any of the definitive online parts resources - is this a dealer order? does the "sm aluminum crush washer" come with the unit?, and how much should I expect to pay?
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1995 850T Wagon 101k
1998 V70 GLT Wagon 85k
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posted by
someone claiming to be Frank
on
Sun Nov 23 04:19 CST 2003 [ RELATED]
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The heater hoses are not common replacement items so unless they're in poor condition, I'd leave them alone.
A t-stat is easy to replace WITH the correct torx bit.
A '95 Volvo does NOT need any scan tool, you can read the codes just as well manually so save your money.
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PS - Frank,
Please forgive my limited knowledge, but what exactly are the heater hoses, and where do I find them??
My guess is that these are these the lines that feed the Heater Core which Haynes refers to as Heater Pipes, or Heater Pipe Flange??
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1995 850T Wagon 101k
1998 V70 GLT Wagon 85k
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posted by
someone claiming to be Frank
on
Mon Nov 24 16:38 CST 2003 [ RELATED]
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Yep, I don't think that I've seen one go bad yet and the 850s have been in the US since fall '92.
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db, Frank, thanx for your help... other contributions still welcome.
Frank - help - I am all about saving money, and not blowing cash! You state that I do not need the scan tool, and that I can read the codes myself on a '95. - I know this is true for some things... codes were set when my turbo hose broke, I reset them, and I have had the occassion to reset the service light (yesterday.
It appears that my 95 has both the A/B do-it-yourself boxes attached to the ECU, as well as being OBD2 equipped (I don't know if any other year models have both, or if even all the 95s are like this).
But, my understanding is that with a OBD 2 Scanner, I will be able to access more codes, and more detailed info than I can with the A/B plug system. Obviously, Auterra is an extensive tool with graphs and all, but that is not what I am referring to.
For instance, I have the electronic climate control, and understand that is operated by a second computer. If I should start the car one day, and see the REC and AC lights flashing, then that computer will have stored a fault code. Will I be able to read codes like that without the OBD2 Scan Tool?
Also, the scan tool will show codes that either start with a "P0" (generic), or a "P1" (Volvo proprietary). But, when I pulled the fault codes from the A/B switch, I got a list of codes I could not find explanations for {A2 TCs; 414, 543, 545, 454, 554, 452, 451, 455, 453 in that order}. The Auterra software explains all codes, but in the P1 or P0 format.
I surmized that my mom's 98 V70 could benefit from the Auterra (gonna try and get her to split the cost) as well as my Dodge PU and my Chrysler convertible. But the main reason I am getting it is for my Volvo.
Can I do just as much without the scan tool as I could with it in terms of reading codes from the various computers on board?
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1995 850T Wagon 101k
1998 V70 GLT Wagon 85k
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posted by
someone claiming to be Frank
on
Mon Nov 24 16:36 CST 2003 [ RELATED]
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Right, you CAN read and clear all fault codes manually w/o ANY scan tool. A generic type scan tool won't help you much, even IF it'd connect and read codes with your '95 car. A Volvo VST scan tool (VERY costly, dealer only tool) can connect to your car WITH an extra adaptor (not via your OBDII plug either) and THAT tool can do more than anything else, like monitor various functions BUT it's very rare when you'ld ever really need that.
Save your money and don't buy any scan tool. Many DIY type people like the pre-'96 850s because of the fact that they don't need a scan tool.
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Frank,
Thanx for the input...
While reading today, I came across this link
http://volvospeed.com/CheckEngine.htm
I guess what I really need is the Pocket Data Booklet;
QUOTE
One of the best tools that you can buy is the "Pocket Data Booklet", TP 0302207, this 3 ½ by 5 inch book contains all the codes plus all the various specifications, torque specs, it's just loaded with technical data that can be useful for maintaining your vehicle. 1-800-25-VOLVO, last listed price $15.95.
I will be doing work on my mom's 98 V70, so I may get the scan tool in the future. Right now my Dodge PU is throwing the CEL. Been to the dealer twice, paid for first round, argued for second, now up for a third... would sure like to know the code AHEAD of time, to see if they are being honest.
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1995 850T Wagon 101k
1998 V70 GLT Wagon 85k
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posted by
someone claiming to be Ray N.
on
Mon Nov 24 05:45 CST 2003 [ RELATED]
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1995's are not OBDII (I think they are OBD1). OBD2 compliance did not
occur until model year 98. See:
http://brickboard.com/ARCHIVES/1999AUG/10014929.shtml
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Here is a pic of the Emissions Label noting 1995 model year, and OBD II
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1995 850T Wagon 101k
1998 V70 GLT Wagon 85k
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Ray -
That is what I thought before I got the car, my (Indy) mechanic too and so on.
When picking the car up, I noticed the change holder doubling as an OBD2 cap, and thought perhaps someone simply replaced the original change cap with a later OBD2 one... but, the OBD2 style plug is there (at the time, I did not know the OBD2 style plug configuration differed from the OBD1)
THEN - when I was looking at the under hood emissions sticker - the one that refers to the catalyst and CA emissions compliance. The car is certified as OBD2 compliant. After talking to a few people, it seems that 1996 was the year that OBD2 became mandatory, and you are certain to find OBD2 in 1996 and after, but there are apparently some earlier models which featured it.
--
1995 850T Wagon 101k
1998 V70 GLT Wagon 85k
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What I did was install the prestone flush kit that allows you to flush with a hose...a lot of junk came out. I then rean the prestone super flush chemical that needs water only to work...then flushed with the hose kit again...more junk came out. Then I ran distilled water until hot and drained twice. Finally I added prestone dexcool (the orange stuff) since it is supposed to last longer and contains no aluminum damaging chemicals. Very happy with the results.
If you have noticed fluctuations with the temp, definately replace the Tstat. I would not do anything with the ECT unless it is running rough or is throwing a code.
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