I have an 850 GLT wagon that I bought with about the same miles yours has on it and the first thing we did was replace the strutt mounts/bearings and replace the strutts and springs with the Bilstein/TME package and we have been very happy. The car is fun to drive in the curves but is still comfortable on the highway, we did the susp. 3 years and 92k miles ago and as far as I can tell they are still doing their job. You also probably may need the sway bar end links replaced as well, they will make the front end feel like it is falling apart when they go bad. Good luck.

A couple of points. Bilsteins are not necessarily stiffer, but replacing worn out struts will give the feeling of "stiffer", they do provide a great deal more wheel control - so I have them. The old bounce test is just not an adequate test for today's vehicles. If a car fails the bounce test it is definitely in need of work, but even if it passes (very subjective) it could still have seriously worn struts. My car needed new front struts at 85,000 miles which I sensed more from the feel of the car than a bounce test. Something to look very hard at is the top spring/strut mount which can fail. The center metal collar can separate from the rubber and cause the top of the strut to move around causing a lot of rattle-type noises. Push down on the front corner of the car and watch the top of the strut in the engine compartment. It normally move a little but if you look hard you can see if the metal collar is moving independent of the rubber spring mount. It took me ages to track it down because the noise sounded more like a loose metal item under the car, but that's a problem I had. Also look at lower ball joints which don't show their wear with the old "shake the wheel" test. You have to jack it up and use a large pry-bar to check the amount of free play. Bottom-line on the Bilsteins - I believe they are superior for control and don't make the ride worse.

I think that your shocks/struts probably are in working order.

Bilsteins are more an upgrade/preference issue. I replaced my stock ones with Bilsteins at about 110,000 miles, but I live in Michigan, home to the worst roads in the known world. Many local roads are used by the OEMs to do squeak and rattle tests - better than they can produce when they TRY to make bad roads at the proving grounds.

Bilsteins are stiffer, but I think the ride overall is the same, except that the wheels really seem to stick to the road, like when you hit a dip on an off ramp or on a curve, the car doesn't feel like it will lose contact.

It's also a matter of getting used to it. If you drive another or more cars, then the responsiveness could be more noticeable.

I think the ride is still a little harsher than my C70 T5, even though I have 17 inch wheels on the C70 and 15 in wheels on the 850. Sidewalls also play a part, so 15 in wheels give a little more cushion than 17s or 18s.

"the car rattles over bumps and wallows on 2 lane backroads"

Is this your suspension rattling OR dash, interior parts rattling? If suspension related, I doubt that it's due to bad struts/shocks but likely due to worn bushings or other suspension related parts.

I thought your "rattles" over bumps was an excellent description.
I just bought an 850 which does the same thing. I didn't realize how bad things were until I drove my Mom's V70... major difference.

I remember a Saab 900 I had with the same symptoms... I replaced the shocks and struts, but the ride felt the same.

From reading this board, it seems that other things contribute to this feeling that you and I want to remedy... such as the mounts, the spring seats, sway bar links, control arms, etc. Each of these things have rubber components which deteriorate over time.

So I now believe that the shocks and struts were not necessarily the problem.. at least not the whole problem... on my Saab, and I have to assume the same is the case with my 850. I don't know how to tell what feel indicates which part needs replacing, and if someone here can better explain it, please do.
I do know the ball joint / tie rod test. But to tell if the sway bar link is poor compared to the spring seat, etc. loses me.

I am in the same boat as you, and fear that to get the ride I desire, I will just about have to replace everything. I am not really interested in spending that much, but at least with careful shopping, I can replace the brake discs, pads, rear shocks, rear springs, rear mounts, front struts, front springs, front mounts, front spring seats, front control arms and front tie rod ends all for about $1,300ish - give or take depending on which parts are OEM, and which are the Scan Techs (STs being about half the cost, but having only half the life, if that).


I can tell you that for most of these suspension related things, you will get your best pricing through FCP Groton. Even if you desire Volvo OEM, and it is not listed on their website, call and talk to Nick. I just about guaranty you will not find it cheaper. The only things I found cheaper were at Newandusedvolvoparts.com, where the Touring (sometimes called Economy) class Bilsteins were only $77 each with free shipping. Other than that, FCP Groton is your one stop shop for suspension. For Brake discs, eEuroparts has best pricing when you factor in the free shipping on these heavy items, and RockAuto has the best pricing for Raybestos Ceramic pads.

Cheers
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1995 850T Wagon 101k
1998 V70 GLT Wagon 85k

OK, I'll say that it depends on the driver.
Some like a stiffer ride while others do not. I do not, at least not in my 18 yr old Volvo with OEM struts/shocks. My car's not a sports car or hot rod so I want it to have a nice smooth ride, not feel every bump in the road. I have another car that is a "hot rod" type and has everything high-perf but it's not a car that I'd like to drive on long trips as it's not that confortable.
My Volvo is confortable and handles as well as expected. I've added better IPD sway bars, sway bar links, strut braces BUT the springs, struts and shocks are all OEM. Volvo struts and shocks last a VERY long time (EXCLUDING '99, '00 S80s) so for cars before those days, I'd agree with your mechanic in that front struts can easily go past 150-200K miles. They aren't bad unless the car bounces too much, binding, noisy (although usually something else) or leaking oil (rare with Volvos.

Another note, many times I've read here where people have switched to Bilsteins and were not happy afterwords. They often complain that the car then rides too stiff and/or has new noises afterwords. I'd research the matter before jumping into it and if you opt for Bilsteins, keep your old stuff in case you'ld rather go back.

Well....

I disagree with your mechanic! I have a 1995 850 turbo. I thought the handleing of my car had gone downhill. when you pressed down on the car it did not just damp and stop. Go over railroasd tracks and the car had a nice bounce. Not something that I like. Shocks are not measured in miles, they are measured in abuse...how much have you put them through. Mine were not damping dumps and keeping the tires glued to the road in rough condition. I have 120K miles, and would have replaced them years ago, had I know how much BETTER the Bilstiens were. Had I known this I probably would have even upgrades to Koni's.

I did this job myself, took me 3 hours...total....I put on bilstein HD's and they are awesome! but I like my car glued to the road, and don;t mind feeling the road.....if that is not your preference, then replace with the Touring Class...less harsh....

Best o' luck!
alan.

I agree with your mechanic. If your car rattles now, Bilstein HD's will make it seem like you have no suspension at all. If your mechanic is asking you to stay with what you have, why pay money out for something you don't need?

I have the original Boge shocks on my 850-R at 83,000 miles. They're fine.

Why fix something that ain't broke.