I would like to replace the oil trap on my 1996 850R. There isn't a flame trap on the 850R but I was told by my Volvo Service manager that if the oil trap and hoses that go in and out of it are gunked up then it will cause high pressure in the crankcase. The oil trap is a small hollow black box and I just can't see how it won't eventually gunk up as the miles pile up even with regular oil changes. Since I would like to avoid blowing seals I thought I'd do this bit of preventive maintenance. It appears the oil trap is located right behind the intake manifold and is bolted to the engine block. Has anybody done this as a DIY? I would like to hear from someone who's done it on their own. I think its beyond ridiculous that a $35 dollar part will require $400 worth of labor to install. Talk about stupid design and location.

Addenda to last post:

Is there anyway to tell if the oil trap is gunked up before you go to all the trouble of removing it? Can you look into it with a mirror or what not, and see if it needs replacing, or do you have to wait until your engine seals start leaking? Dick

There is no flame trap on a turbo so I have to assume that the oil trap is the main culprit for high pressure in the crankcase if it is gunked up with dirt and debris. There is a very simple way to see if you have high pressure in your crankcase. Open the oil filler cap on your engine. Leave it lying on top of the filler hole but do not tighten. Turn on your engine. If your oil filler cap moves up as if pressure is pushing it out of the filler hole then you have high pressure in your crankcase. I think I read this somewhere in another Volvo website. But why wait until your seals leak if you can avoid it?

I have a 97 850 GLT in Norway with the light pressure turbo. I'm taking over a bushel basket of parts in a couplel of weeks for preventive maintenance because parts are so high over there, even though next-door Sweden makes everything. The car has 55K miles on it (all short trip driving). How long do I have before this nasty little job takes the edge off my day? If soon, I will order the parts to take with me. Dick

P.S. Isn't there anyway to clean this little box instead of removing it? Chilton or Hayne's isn't much help. What wouldn't I pay for a Benchley 850 manual.

Preparing to do the exact same procedure on my '96 855 N/A.

Dumb design--you are correct--but it is just one of several bad design on the 850. In fact, I've gotten used to them.

I've been studying how I am going to do this and I think I am going to disconnect the fuel line down behind the engine and pull the entire fuel line and rail/injector assembly out as one piece. I want to do this to eliminate the possibility that while I am monkeyikng around with this thing, that I might crimp, or distort, the fragile fuel line.

While I am in there, I'm going to replace all the hoses that go to this box. I've read several posts talking about cracks in these hard rubber/plastic hoses. So, while I am in there, I'll just replace them all (probably another $100).

I'm planning on doing the procedure this next weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.

Ken

I've got a 1996 850R estate, and last year replaced the turbo. I did this myself, and at the same time flushed out the oil separator. This is a slightly awkward job, but if you have the time, it is achievable by a reasonably competent mechanic. First, remove the fuel rail, loosen off the fuel clips on top of the cam cover, remove the bolts holding the injector rail in place, gently ease out the injectors. All 5 will come out together, they are held in place with o-rings. Disconnect the ducting to the inlet manifold, remove the vacuum pipe from the fuel pressure regulator on the end of the injector rail, and carefully wedge it ontop of the engine. Remove vacuum pipes associated with the air bypass valve, and electrical connections, remove throttle cable. Undo bolts securin manifold to engine. Be careful lifting it out as there is also a vacuum connection underneath the manifold, and remove. The oil separator is on the lower left of the engine, and is held in by 2 bolts, one well hidden at the bottom. The whole job takes about 4-5 hours to do.Sounds daunting, it isn't.

How do you properly de-pressurize the fuel delivery system? Do you need to replace the O-rings on the fuel injectors if they are removed? Yes, it all sounds very daunting but I don't even consider myself an amateur mechanic - let alone a competent mechanic which is why I don't think I'll do this on my own. If I had a fellow Volvo owner who's done some hardcore stuff like this doing it with me then I'd feel better. I can understand why the dealer would charge $400 for this because as you said it will take 4-5 hours. Only to replace a $35 part. It makes me want to tear the hair out of my head!

You don't have to de-pressurise the fuel system, it can be gently pulled out of the way and hooked on the cam cover. The o-rings on the injectors will only need replacing if they are severly worn out. Use a tiny smear of petroleum jelly when you reassemble them, it will make it a hell of alot easier. Just be methodical, it is not a difficult job.

I already have the oil trap, the O-ring and intake manifold gasket. Ready to go but I'm very apprehensive about the whole thing. The most I've ever done as a DIY is to replace the torque bushing, the thermostat, ECT sensor, serpentine belt and front engine mount. I don't think I can pull this one off. It just makes me so angry that such a cheap part will cause the seals to blow. Even more enraging is that Volvo engine design engineers located the oil trap behind the intake manifold. I love my 850R but things like this are simply unforgivable. You'd think Volvo deliberately designed it this way so that dealers can make fat profits off the labor involved. Oh well, I'll just have to figure something out. Thanks for the input!

gREETINGS,
already replaced my oil seal on 94 850 turbo, i suspect same as you that oil trp box is either gunked up or that long hose from oil trap to top of motor is collapsing under certain conditions,or age of vehicle etc,again i dont know how this happened as i change the oil approx every month and use mobil 1. turbo engines seem to get very hot. you must remove the intake manifold in front to get access, looks like pain in the neck type of job. i want to do this soon i purchased the gasket but havent gotten around to it, good luck think you can find some" how to" in the aftermarket chilton book.
good luck
frankd, south florida