Volvo AWD 850 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 6/2004 850 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Lower Control Arms 850 1994

Hello,
This weekend I will be doing front brakes on my 850. Car was at Swedish Engineering a few weeks back and I was told passenger side ball joint was beginning to go.I have a new IPD A-arm but intend to do brakes first and then replace a-arms with in the next few weeks. I have the following questions.
1. Shouldn't both a-arms be replaced while I am an it.
2. Do discs and rotors need to be removed to get to ball joint? Looks like enough room is there to lave them on.
3. Haynes manual says to torques everything after car is down and suspension is loaded. How are mounting bolts reached and manual also says an angle gauage is needed? What gauge they referring too?
4. Any special tools or items I need for this job?
This is the first car I've owned that ball joint is integral to the a-arm so please excuse my lack of knowledge in this case.
Thanks!
Joel








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

    Lower Control Arms 850 1995

    1) Your person choice of either one side or both. I did both sides.
    2) No need to touch the brake at all.
    3) I used a floor jack to raise the brake rotor until the new A-arm is level with the ground. Then torqued the nut/bolt to spec. You can lower the car with the wheels on, but room is very tight to get to the nut/bolt to tighten them up to the correct torque spec.
    4) No special tools are needed, set of 3/8" and 1/2" metric socket, 12" long big chisel, 3 lbs hammer. The chisel and hammer are for the ball joint release from the knuckle. When driving the chisel into the gap of the ball joint holder, make sure that you have something to hold the brake rotor in place (not to move when you hit the hammer). Otherwise, the whole brake assembly and steering knuckle would move when you hit the hammer. You would waste you effort and not able to open up the ball joint holder to let the ball joint to drop down.

    Ching-Ho Cheng
    --
    1995 855 NA, Bilstein Strut & Shocks, Volvo Protective Grill, K&N Filter, E-Code Lens, ClearCorner Light, Alpine CD-Changer, AutoDim RearView Mirror, 6000K HID







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.