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1995 850 - How to Determine if Rear Caliper Pistons are Sticking? 850

I believe I've narrowed my rear brake shudder problem to the rear brake rotors.

After 10 years and 85K miles they may be warped and once hot shudder at slow speed when coming to a stop.

When I replace the rotors what should I look for on the Calipers to make certain they are in good working order. How do I make certain the caliper pistons are not binding?

Obviously if one of my rotors is ground down it'll be easy to tell.

Good bit of news- the guy that repirs ABS modules emailed me back to let me know the 1995 model year 850's do not have abs module failure - at least he's never seen one fail. Hence he has no need to offer a service to fix them. Apparently, he has his hands full fixing the 96+ abs modules.

Thanks

NateB








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    1995 850 - How to Determine if Rear Caliper Pistons are Sticking? 850

    Won't the wheel be hard to turn by hand after you jack the car up? It should rotate at least 2 times for a good pull down.

    Klaus
    --
    95 854T, 88 780, 88 245








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    1995 850 - How to Determine if Rear Caliper Pistons are Sticking? 850

    When you remove the old pads from the caliper, you should be able to tell right away if the piston(s) are stuck. If you can squeeze the pistons back into the caliper, they are not stuck. My experience with stuck pistons has been that you can't move them at all. I use a pair of channel lock pliers to force them back into the caliper body. The ones that are siezed will not move at all. You should also check the rubber seal around the piston and if they show any signs of tearing or dry rot, replace the caliper, because torn or dry rotted seals will allow moisture in and sooner or later the piston will sieze.

    Good luck!








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      1995 850 - How to Determine if Rear Caliper Pistons are Sticking? 850 1995

      I have a '95 850 (110K miles) with a similar problem -- I think. I would appreciate some advice on my brake-rotor-caliper situation. In a week or so, I will be moving from Atlanta to New York City. I am driving myself and my dog up there in my car, so I feel time-pressured to get my car fixed. I have always liked the people at the Volvo specialist repair shop I take my car to, but I have some questions about the $600 estimate they just gave me for a new caliper, considering that this same shop just looked at the brakes three weeks earlier and is who did the new brake job on the car last year!

      Here's the situation:
      New brakes -- all four wheels -- about a year ago (6k miles). I park the car in a covered space, but not an enclosed garage. About six weeks ago, I took the car in for its 110K mile service. I asked them to investigate the squeaking brakes, which had been an intermittent problem ever since the new brake job. The service tech found some rust build-up and removed it.

      For a while afterward, the squeak seemed to be gone. Then, near the end of a very humid, wet, rainy two-week period, I began hearing a terrible high pitched screech when I let off the brake pedal. This sound was louder and more ear-piercing than any brake squeak I had ever heard before. There was also a new rumbling/dragging sound -- also high-pitched, not as loud as the screech -- that was especially audible when turning to the right. Typically, I drive the car only a short distance each day (I have been working from home, so no commute!). Two Fridays ago, I drove probably 35 miles in city traffic. Somehow, this caused the screech to mellow. Lately, I just hear a mini-screech when I put the car in reverse.

      Ten days ago: I took the car in again. I was told $275 for new caliper part, $175 for labor and $50-xx for rotor depending on whether resurfaced or replaced. The service manager said it was rare for the caliper to fail and that he couldn't think of more than two that ever had been replaced at their shop. He showed me the rotor on the driver-side rear wheel and how it compared to the others. It looked orange rather than like metal in several orbits at the periphery of the rotor -- does this mean the brake pad is showing through? Is it possible for the caliper/pistons to have been damaged when the "rust was removed" earlier? What if all the parts aren't reassembled properly -- could this have happened after the brakes were inspected at the 110K service?

      Any advice, comments?

      THANKS!!!







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