When we bought the 1995 850 GLT wagon 1 1/2 years ago with 145,000 we quickly found out it was burning a quart of oil every 600 miles. Now we have problems and either need a valve job or put in a new engine. This one has sort of been a money pit car (not like my trusty '89 240). Do we fix and keep, fix and sell or sell as is?? HELP! Thanks

Aside from the motor, how is the rest of the car? If you do the rebuild, for the money are you going to have a better car than you could buy for the same money? Probably.

Having a good IM inspect the car is very good advice.

Don't throw it away! Part it out instead! I'll definitely take some of the parts!

kevin

Get a second opinion from a good Volvo mechanic before doing anything.

Are you sure that is the valves? check your valves seals instead, this my advice before going any further
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Ken

Even if it's just the seals, your looking at a lot of money for the job, and to go all the way and remove a head and just replace the seals seems a little short sighted. Better to just spend the extra money for the valve grind and have it all done at the same time while the top end of the motor is off and apart. There is a way to replace seals with the head still on the car, but I've never used it or seen it done. Once you remove the valve keepers and springs, there's nothing to prevent the valve itself from falling down into the cylinder bore. There are attachments for the spark plug port that will pump compressed air into the cylinder and keep the valves up while you replace springs and seals, but if the air compressor or power fails you're SOL, the whole head has to then come off to get it out. It's pretty feasable to do the job yourself by this method since your not pulling the head, provided you have a compressor and all the rest. Never done it myself on this car though, so if someone has knowledge to the contrary please correct me (special tools needed, pressed in fittings, etc.).

I would have the problem looked at by a good indie though, have them do a leakdown test and all that. I'd be surprised if it was just valve seals that had been compromised. Only 145K and it's buring that much oil says two things to me, the previous owner (or owners) beat the hell out of the car and/or they never changed the oil. Either way, trying to sell a car that's burning a quart every 600 miles or so is gonna be tough.

Yeah! We feel the Dealer stuck it to us. We saw all the records, all service done at this dealer, one owner car. SOMEONE knew it was burning oil and we got stuck with it! We are having the our local indie open up the top, he is not too optimistic. Thanks!

the piston must be (on the particular cylinder you're workin on) at TDC--> Top Dead Center to replace the valve seals, it will prevent the valves to
fall down in case of power/compressor/hose failure. I think a special tool is needed to compress the spring in order to remove the seal...
I'm curious: I'll call my indy mechanic monday and let you know later on.
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Ken

Yeah, you need a special type of spring compressor that is made specifically for this application, and is different than the normal type of valve spring compressor. It has to clamp onto the outside of the head or a rocker shaft stud, cam hold down point, somthing, since the arm cannot sit underneath the face of the head. I saw one of these a few years ago but never used one.

perhaps the flame trap is blocked????