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Should I see voltage at Air Pump Relay? 850 1997

Trying to replace a water-soaked seized secondary air pump (emissions) in my '97 850GLT. I'm trying the $20 'generic' 12V blower motor hack. Here's what I did:

1. removed old air pump, retrofitted new 'generic' 12V blower. Hooked up input/output hoses appropriately.

2. replaced air pump relay.

Note that I did not replace the SAS ('purge') valve -- I realize that is dumb, but I'm trying to get the electrical part working, first.

When I started the car, I expected to see the 12V blower motor run for about a minute. Nothing. In fact, there is no voltage at the output of the (brand new) air pump relay.

Could the bad SAS valve be causing the air pump controller unit to *not* trigger the relay? Somehow, I doubt it. If that isn't the problem then what do I look at next -- could it be a bad controller?

Any hints/tips from anyone who has been down this path would be very appreciated.

Thanks,
Prof








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Should I see voltage at Air Pump Relay? 850 1997

Not totally sure about the 97' but on my 98' the relay is in the box just in front of the fuses (relay box). Anyway, When you pull the relay there are 4 slots for the relay prongs. 2 small ones and 2 large ones. If you hook up a jumper wire going accross the 2 large slots (connecting them)then the pump should run, mine runs even with the key off and removed.
If it doesn't run then you have to have a fuse blown.

I used a $10 12v. pool raft pump from walmart for this about a year ago. Other than it being louder than the stock pump, it still works really well and for the price you can't beat it!
Doug







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