I have a small crease on the pan where the wife or I took a hit on something.. It is on the bottom about an inch away from the side. A new one is 400 and 800 installed. I was wondering about taking it off and having a shop TIG weld a small bead..Anyone know how thick this cast AL pan is on the bottom?

Welding aluminum is extremely difficult. If there is no leak, why bother? If it needs to be replaced, find a junk yard in Utah. It a hard job to replace for a DIYer, cross member needs to be removed.

Klaus
--
98 V70Rawd(101Kmi), 95 854T(85K mi), 88 245(165K mi)

Klaus, Can you tell me in a little more detail how to take off the pan..
I bought the sealant and all the pickup gaskets today...I looked at it while I replaced the propeller shaft assy. today..
I hear you might need to undo the engine mount o nthe pass side and then support the engine while you lower the cross memeber? Which lbolts does it take to drop the member and how far do you drop it? Do I take off the 4 main bolts and also the ones on the angle supports.
I hear the 2 o-rings insedthe pan are a trick to get to stay put..
Thanks

I will look in a junkyard.I might be able to save a few hundred but its the 400 labor where I can save the most...It is leaking really seeping where the gash is..
What else is involved in replacing...They sell some sealant for 24$.. There is no gasket...I also see a tranny line maybe in the way??? The pan also mates on 2 different surfaces 90 degrees apart. It looks like a bolt or 2 will be kinda tricky..
Any other comments will be appreciated.
Thanks
Klaus

welding it isnt as dificult as you might imagine IF you have the right kit to do it (read a real pro shop!)...

now im thinking a real proshop might well be able to weld it in place..or weld a patch over it...seems a LOT better option than replacing it...

I think it will have to be take n off and cleaned really well to get a good 30mm weld on it. I guess I will plan on replacing the pickup tube seals at the same time?

If it's a small hairline crack, try peening it with the round end of a ball peen hammer. Just keep tapping on either side of the crack, quite close to it, to encouage the aluminum to move a bit and tighten it up. No heavy blows. This is a trick my father taught me many years ago. He was an auto body guy (a "tin knocker") and could be pretty useful when he wasn't drunk. I had a souped up Corvair with an oversize oil pan that would whack the ground every now and then, and that is what he showed me how to fix. Works pretty well, but expect some small seepage to remain.

I used a chisel and small ballpeen to close up the hairline crack and in a couple hours no leaks so far..At least I slowed it down..Seems all you can do with these Bricks.

A lot of folks also use J B Weld successfully on engines etc. You must clean and rough up the surface, but stuff does work. Would not need to remove the pan either.

dick