I took it for a test drive, it sure was nice to drive. I drove to a gas station and checked the trans fluid and the engine oil and they did not look as good as I would expect on a volvo with only 86k. If the trans fluid is a synthetic or a blend should it still be red in color? This was kind of light beige looking maybe like a really light engine oil. The motor oil was definately blackish and when I pulled ou the dip stick a small wisp of smoke came out of the tube. When the engine was at idle there was this small canister between the head and the firewall that had a purple tube going to it and a larger metal tube going into the case someplace that was viberating pretty significantly, do they all do that? Don't tell me thay made the flame traps that easy to acess! While going through the glove box I found out that the car was leased which makes me kind of uncomfortable, as I feel like people who lease cars and know they are not going to buy them are not going to take very good care of them. The business cards of where the car was bought and serviced were in the glove box and I copied the info down, but now I just feel like the car was not taken very well care of to justify the expense.
Thank you for all of your feedback, it has been really helpfull. I definately like the 850 series now; it does really feel like a volvo and it does feel safe.

Well, I did not have the money... and I have already put alot of time and effort into my '95,

But this 97 850 T-5 Turbo with only 39,000 miles on it just went on eBay for $6,500

A couple years back, I got a great deal on eBay and flew from CA to VA to get the car and drive it back.... Fun trip. Point is, for that good a bargain, it could be worth the travel distance.

If nothing else, you could print out the eBay sheet and use it as a bargaining tool.

If the link did not work, the addy is http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4546125462&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Cheers
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1995 850T Wagon 120k

How many miles? (Hope I didn't miss that one.) AC condensor, PNP ( maybe) do a flush on the tranny, it is cheap to do, Not a steal at that price, but hey.... I saw the 86K. Should have had the timing belt done, I do break fluid change and tranny flush every 30K just for grins. Cheap maint. Might as well do all new breaks at this point. Thermostat and sensor, again for grins every 30K. Then have some fun.

If a Volvo shop has it, bargain hard. Make them change the oil in the engine AND transmission and replace with Mobil 1 sythetic 10-30 for the engine and Mobil 1 ATF for the transmission, regardless of what they say. I'm sorry. I don't really trust shops, especially Volvo shops. I've really had them presume on my ignorance. Ask to see the empty oil containers. Most places are going to pull the plug in the tranny, drain out two quarts (max), replace two and tell you the transmission was flushed (I'm assuming it's an automatic. If not, ignore the transmission flush advice). It takes about twelve quarts to properly flush that transmission, with someone inside running the gear shift back and forth between park drive and neutral to empty all compartments while the engine is running. Timing belt and serpentine belt change out is a must, as someone said. Ditto the brake fluid. Look at the little reservoir. If it appears dark, amber, any color but water clear, ask them to change it, and make sure they only put in Volvo's dot 4 fluid. A lot of brake fluids don't mix well with each other. The aspirated engine should give you that 300K if you take proper care of it and use synthetic throughout and change every 3K miles, though you might find Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart a bit expensive at $4.75 or so a quart, and needing 6+ quarts for every change. But if it's short driving you're doing, that's what you want in a 10-30 weight for year-round driving. Bend down and stick your hand through the spokes of the wheel if it has alloys, and feel the edge of the brake rotors to see how deeply they are worn. Walk around to some other cars and check them likewise, until you get an indication of what is worn and what is not. The back rotors should just have a fraction of the wear on them compared to the front ones. You'll change out the front rotors two or three times before you do the back because of all the weight up front. Stick with OEM on the rotors and pads. You get what you pay for on cheap rotors--turned from mild steel because it's quicker and easier, they rust and wear out fast.

Don't forget to flush the radiator (if you can't make the shop do it) and specify Volvo coolant. Don't let them use anything else. Volvo water pumps last a very long time if you use Volvo coolant and change every two years. If you use any other brand, the six to seven dollar variety, expect your water pump to go before 100K. It's the lubricating additives that Volvo puts in its coolant that makes the pump last a long time, and why it's over twice as expensive. Nothing compared to replacing a water pump before it's time.

The body is galvanized and warranted for eight years, which is up right now, but check underneth every year for rust, have a garage put it up on a hoist and walk around with your can or spray bottle of rust killer; it should last you way beyond the warranted eight years. I also drive an 83 240 with over 250K on it, which sits out in the Oregon rain, and the only rust I have on it is where I foolishly drilled through the edge of the front fender to hold a piece of trim on with a screw, compromising the galvanizing when I did it.

It's a good car, much safer and nicer than the old 240. Follow the BrickBoard posts to build up your knowledge about the car and to anticipate problems. If yours is aspirated, the Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve should be changed as well. When it plugs (and it will), crankcase pressure builds and forces oil out through the main crank and cam seals.

Hope this helps. Dick

Hello. We went from an 85 244 (190,000 miles) to a used 96 854 (30,000 miles now with 120,000 miles). The differences between the cars was huge. The 240 was a bucket of bones - great college car that got me from point A to point B. I loved that car. The 850 is faster to start but the one we got had more options on it - functioning AC, sun roof, seat heaters, etc. My only complaint with the 850 is that with all the "new" features there are just more things to break. And volvo parts are not cheap. Having said that, I love our 850 and its much more fun to drive than the old 244. I fully expect this one to go past 200,000 miles.

Good luck with your decision.

Rob

96 850 120,000 miles
04 S60 2.5T 13,000 miles

The camm belt should have been changed at 70k miles. Make sure this was/is done if you get the car. Check transmission fluid closely for any signs of burning. Make sure the transmission is warmed up well in your road test. Make sure you also run w/ the ac on. It will put an additional load on the cooling system for both the engine and transmission. I bought a low mileage '95 like yours and didn't look at it well enough thinking it couldn't possibly have any problems yet. Wrong!! I've been living with a "only when hot" transmission problem ever since. Don't take anything for granted when buying a used car.

Your 89 244 is totally different from the 97 855! Front wheel drive, 5 cyl interferance engine, air bags everywhere. Yes, with good maintenance records, these models will go 300K, but they like to be driven until hot - not just to school and back home.
I have an issue with the Corolla, it is too small and light. Great milage and probably a good city car, but do not get it in an accident.
If the 97 855 hasn't been wrecked, don't worry about rust. Actually your 89 shouldn't be rusty either. The body panels were all galvenized,

Klaus
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98 V70Rawd(108Kmi), 95 854T(88K mi), 75 164E(173K mi)