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worn strut mount? 850 1996

While do some routine maintenance on my engine, I noticed that the strut cap (the 2-in diameter metal disc) was positioned such that it was not physically touching the top surface of the mount - there is about 1/8 inch gap. Same on the other side. When I jacked up the front end, the cap came into contact with the mount. Is this an indication of a worn strut mount/spring seat? BTW, my car has 105K miles and its original struts.

-phil








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    worn strut mount? 850 1996

    This seems normal. Both of mine also have a gap. Usually the strut bushing fails and you start hearing a thump when you hit a bump. Until that happens they should be OK unless of course the shock inserts are worn out.








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    worn strut mount? 850 1996

    No, that is pretty much normal. The best way to check for worn mounts is to take that nut and washer off and look at the top of the mount where it blows out. At 105K you probably need them anyhow. I just did a set yesterday on a '98 with 120K. One side was blown through, the other side was right behind it and one of the two struts was pretty soft.

    Mark








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      worn strut mount? 850 1996

      Hey Mark, I still haven't done my spring seats, and you were advising me to check my struts (actually you were advising I replace them at 150K if they are original, which I can't verify).

      When you say one strut was pretty soft, how do you determine that? Press on the fender like testing a shock, or another test? Thanks, Don








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        worn strut mount? 850 1996

        Don, Truthfully I did not even check the shocks on her car before I tore it apart. The spring seats were blown out so I was in there for that and I told her that the struts were going to be out of the car at that time and that at 120k she might want to consider replacing them as we would not be back in there for another 100k. With that she opted to replace the struts while they were out. While doing the struts I noticed that one of them would not stay extended very well. In other words when you pull the piston rod out to full extension it slid right back down with little to no resistance whereas the other side took much much longer for the rod to slide back into the cartridge. Typically when I am looking for a soft or worn out strut you bounce up and down on the bumper and see how far and fast it compresses, how fast it rebounds, and how many times it bounces up and down before it settles. Past that I take them for a test drive and see how they handle. On a bad shock the thing you notice the most is how easy it is to compress, on the bad ones you can literally dribble the corner of the car like a basketball. If your struts have 150K on them you might want to consider replacing them. However, if you do your own work it is not a critical. If they are in satisfactory condition then leave them in and change them out when you feel that they are worn enough to dictate it. On a regular customer car the decision that has to be made is whether or not to take advantage of the overlapping labor that exists because you are doing the seats. It is a couple hours labor plus an alignment either way and if the customer has the $$ it makes sense to do the struts then and save them the cost of doing the same labor all over again down the road.







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