I don't know if this has anything to do with the starter or anything but my heater core went out before I had this starter problem. I cannot get the starter to turn the engine fast enough to get it to fire, I looked through the oil cap to watch the cams and they spin once every secnd. I removed the starter to get it checked at advanced auto parts and auto zone and they both passed the tests, and then I thought it could be the battery. So I went to have that checked, and that is good. I checked all the grounds and they are all clean and good fitted!

Any ideas?

ok I have been doing a lot of research, but still have found correlations, but kinda found something about the engine coolant sensor?

I have pulled the codes and recieved:


123 Coolant Temperature Sensor Signal Absent



325 ECU Memory Loss



435 Heated O2 sensor response slow


anything here that trips someones wire?

Yes, it is a 123 code, hang a new sensor and stuff in a new thermostat while you are in there. You will find that you need to pull the upper thermostat housing to get to the temp sensor anyhow. On your slow crank, have you tried cranking it with a set of jumper cables hooked up to another running vehicle? If your connections are good on both sides of the circuit, positive and negative, then I would say you have a weak battery regardless of what the guys at the local parts store tell you. The only other thing that you can do is to hook up an inductive ammeter to it while it is cranking and see what kind of current it is pulling. Off the top of my head I would say that something in the area of 400 amps should be about right but if you are pulling in the area of 600+ you might want to see what is causing it. Bad starter or somekind of mechanical drag on the engine like a seizing piston or crank (not very likely)

Mark

I have just finished pulling the plugs and seeing if maybe there was a compression problem and the starter still continues to turn the engine real slow.

In regards tot he jumping, I have tried that and I still get the same thing with a running car.

Could the starter check out good at the store without a load on it, and then once a load is on, be bad?

That is entirely possible. This is where an ammeter would come in handy. If the starter is dragging due to some kind of internal resistance you will usually pick that up as an excessive amp draw.

Mark

I will take some readings on sunday and get back to you!

OK so now I have ran a direct new wire from the battery to the starter cleaned all the connections to the starter and grounds, and still does the same thing, sothen replaced the starter with the working one and I got the same thing, just faster?!? I dont know should I give up and bring it in to the garage?

Ryan