To Do. I got the Haynes and it's useless. Can you get the Bushings from a auto parts store or are they a dealer idem. Bay-13 has come up empty on the repair Can you help me thanks .........

this has never been done by anybody on this board. Hard to belive.

Well I think you need to define exactly what a "rear trailing arm bushing" is. Everybody has their own nomenclature and I work on these cars day in and day out and your description does not ring a bell on the 850. If you could elaborate a little bit maybe I could tell you what I know about them.

Mark

OK Mark, Thank you for your responce. I went for a wheel alignment And they told me they couldn't due it becuase the left rear wheel had a lot of left to right movement in it and the left rear anchorage bolts where bad. I didn't know what that was so I bought a haynes, nothing in there about it either. So I put the car up on a floor jack and took a look and you can move the wheel from left to right. The (what I'll call the trailing arm) goes from the wheel to the right rear of the car and is attached to a busshing that they use to adjust durring a wheel alignment. It's a circle metal and rubber and has a bolt threw the center. I'll know more tomorrow after a trip to the dealer.

The rear of that car has what Volvo refers to as a Delta Link rear suspension. Imagine a flat rectangular box that has a line draw diagonally from one corner to the other, you end up with two triangles that when laid ontop of each other create a rectangle. The arms that you speak of in the rear suspension are just what I described, they each have two bolts on the base end of the triangle and a single bolt on the narrow or pointy end of the triangle. It is at the pointy end that they are secured into a block with a bushing and that block is in turn secured by the one bolt that I spoke of. In order to align the rear of your car you need to turn these bolts loose so you can get play in it. In my opinion it is a really, really piss poor design when it comes to adjusting it. The design is solid and robust and never really requires adjusting but when it does it is really a vague deal. I much prefer some kind of threaded set up or even ecentrics. It is really tough to guage how much you moved it or in which direction you are going. But again, the good news is that once they are set up they seem to hold their settings very well. In fact I aligned a '94 today and it was dead nuts on in the rear and only off slightly in the front. One thing though, when they first came out with this stuff in '93 it was mandatory that you replaced those darn bolts if you loosened them to do an alignment. A lot of guys do not adhere to that mentallity but I can tell you I have pull those bolts out in the past only to find them coke bottled all to hell and gone from some gorilla with a 1/2" impact.
Anyhow, let us know what they say at the dealership and let me know how much they are charging for a 4-wheel align these days.

Regards,
Mark

Rule 308 thats the pice I'm talking about. I went to volvo today They printed out a section of the rear and I showed the parts guy what I wanted and they had the part. It's called ancorage. It's a block of steel with a bushinh in it. I should take a pic of mine and post it the bushing separated from the block. The part was 70 bucks. and 10 for new bolts. I'm going to change it next week Thank you for your time.

No problem, remember though you need to have that aligned when you are done and you do not want to be torquing and re-torquing those bolts, so if I were you I would just snug the bolts up in it and not tighten them down real good. Then drive it over to the alignment shop and get it set up and tightened down for good.

Good luck,
Mark