posted by
someone claiming to be Mikebox
on
Mon Aug 22 09:00 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Hi guys,
It appears that my v70 (FWD, N/A, Automatic) has decided to start puking oil at the rear main seal; at least it appears to be dripping from the area between the engine and the transaxle. Has anyone here changed the seal? What kind of time did it involve? Did you drop the transaxle down or pull the engine? I hope Volvo has upgraded the seal (anyone know?) I have about 98k on my engine and all service has been adhered to; seems a little early for the seal to die.
Also, I see some suggestions to clean the flame trap on 850 models but it appears that 98 v70s no longer have the trap; is this true?
Thanks,
MW
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I have a '98 V70 AWD.
The car has been raised on Mobil 1 changed avery 5,000 miles.
On 2/9/05 at 86K miles I replaced the rear main seal and did the axle seals and angle drive seals to be safe at the same time, $1011.00
On 5/23/05 at 91K I replaced the cam seals and turbo return line seals, $435.00. The whole crankcase ventilation system was fine.
The following week the valve cover needed to be removed to replace the oil bung plug seals, $329.00. This was supposed to be done when the cam seals were replaced.
Now the ABS module is intermittently acting up. I'll remove that ans send it to Vitor.
As you can see, these repairs are all "right on schedule" in accordance with what other Volvo V70 owners are experiencing. I am actually overdue for teh ABS module problem.
You could certainly have a RMS blown.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Mikebox
on
Wed Aug 24 03:22 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Thanks for the replies guys. I took a look at the car closely yesterday. The engine is completely dry and clean except around the "weep hole" between the engine/torque converter housing where oil is present. Interestingly I have raised this car on Mobil 1 (3000 intervals) as well. I did find one of the rubber elbows on the small vacuum line from the intake manifold to the fitting on the throttle body hose was cracked. I replaced it and cleaned the housing so we shall see if that has any affect (I certainly have my doubts).
Any thoughts on degradation of these oil seals by synthetic oils or do we think they are just poor quality to begin with?
I assume you took your car to a dealer for the $1k repair on the RMS?
Thanks,
MW
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Just crappy seals or design. Mobil 1 will find its way through a leak more easily than dino oil, but it doesn't wreak the seals. The dealer did all the repairs above. I do all other repairs like brakes, rotors, secondat air pumps and control valves, etc.
$1000 for a RMS is not a bad price.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Mikebox
on
Fri Aug 26 03:14 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Ok, I spent a little time with the car the other night. The leak was definately dribbling from the drain/weep hole where the t/c housing and engine are connected. The rest of the engine is absolutely dry and clean. Anyhow, I did find a split in the rubber elbow on the vacuum hose that runs from the RH side of the intake underneath the plenum and attachs to the "flame trap housing". I pulled this hose and fashioned a new elbow from fuel injection hose (wont collapse and resists rot). After replacing, I cleaned up the lower engine and drove the car for a while; dry so far....we'll see how long that lasts. Now I get to tackle the ABS controller..
Thanks for all the help
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You need to clean all the other hoses, elbows, and flame trap in the Crankcase Ventilation system as they are most likely in similar shape as the one you replaced. If you don't, it could be a matter of time before another one springs a leak or worse yet, the rear-main begins to leak as you had feared was the case earlier.
--
1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon
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posted by
someone claiming to be ksg
on
Tue Aug 23 04:52 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Many people have had leaking rear main seals, judging from various posts, but before you conclude this you might want to look carefully at where the leak is occurring. On my car the rear exhaust side cam seal was leaking badly and the oil ran down and around the weep hole near the rear main seal. I saw this by cleaning everything then watching for several days. The exhaust seal was easy to remove. It was very stiff and cracked. When I replaced it I also cleaned up the rebreathing lines, throttle body, etc. The car has been driven about 7000 miles since then and the engine and trans are everywhere dry so far. I am probably lucky to have an intact rear main at 130,000 miles but it would seem worth a close look.
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MW,
While it is true there is no "flame trap" to speak of, the PCV plumbing is still there and needs attention. The most common failure is the vacuum line that runs over to the other side of the intake manifold. The hard plastic line is prone to clogging, and this will in turn result in higher crankcase pressure. This coupled with the 5k recommended oil change interval (too long), will clog the PCV system right up, and next think you have is the dreaded RMS. The repair entails removal of the engine/tranny and generally will cost you about $900 U.S. to get repaired. Try cleaning the PCV system first, and see if that stops the leak. I too own a 98 V70 N/A, and I had a very slight seep start at 98k miles, but checking out the PCV and vacuum line, and fixing a blockage effectively stopped the seep.
Here are a couple of links to look at:
http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/ftrap.php
http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/vacuum_lines.php
BB
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1998 V 70 BASE
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posted by
someone claiming to be Mikebox
on
Fri Sep 16 05:14 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Ok, I bit the dust and took the car to a shop. I had the mechanic replace the RMS, the torque convertor/front pump seal, clean the PVC system and put in a new thermostat. The damage came to a little over $800. It appears that the job was done very well. Outside of a little warranty stuff several years ago, this is the first time in the shop. (I have done all other stuff myself) I certainly thought this was a fair price given what the stealers (dealers) seem to be charging.
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