This message is being written to assist anyone that may be considering fixing their CV boots (this is for the driver-side). I consider myself an intermediate do-it-yourselfer (brakes, timing belt, tranny fluid, tune-ups, etc.) This job was the most challenging for me, due to lack of knowledge and lack of proper tools. It took about 9 hours and was particulalrly frsutrating because I didn't have the right tools. I spent ~$80 in speciallty tools and it was worth every penny. Its damn near impossible without them. Considering boots go bad ~20-30k miles, the tools will pay for themselves in the first use let alone every use thereafter! I would say that once your get the tools this job is about a 4-5 hour task.

DISCLAIMER: The below is not considered factory or official Volvo practice. Its simply what I found useful from reading the Hayes manual, snooping the web, and my own experiences. Take it for what its worth. Keep in mind this is FREE advice!

What you'll need:
brass drift (used to hammer off the CV joints)
retainer ring removal tool
36mm socket with a huge cheater bar (~3ft)
low side bucket to catch tranny fluid
pincher piers (to tighten boot clamps)
new 22mm drive axle nut (if older than ~'95)
IPD's drive axle removal tool
tons of rags
solvent (gasoline)
replacement bootkit
2 part metal epoxy (any auto parts store has it)

OK let's start:

1.) Parking brake and chock the rear wheels.

2.) Raise driver's side front and support on jackstand.

3.) Pull off wheel.

4.) Unstake drive axle nut with chisel and hammer (applicable on early '95s and before). Get that big honking cheater bar with the 36mm socket. Remove the drive nut. Better yet would be an impact wrench, but I didn't have a 36mm socket.

5.) Remove the ABS brake sensor from the top of the wheel assembly. Also remove the brake line and ABS wiring mounting support from the wheelwell.

6.) On the A-shaped control arm you will find the ball joint connection (bottom). It is held in place with a single bolt aligned parallel to the ground and along the long (roll) axis of the car. I though the strut would cause this to be under load, but its not. When the bolt is out you will have to giggle the wheel assmebly a bit while you use a prybar/wrench/screwdriver to free the ball joint. Pay particular attention NOT to damage the dust cover on the top of the ball joint.

7.) Separate the drive axle from the wheel assembly. I used the special tool from IPD for this purpose. Cost about $25 and it worth its weight in gold.

8.) With the ball joint free and the drive axle separated from the wheel assembly rotate the wheel assembly back toward the rear of the car, its weight is supported by the strut.

9.) Now what you should have is the front CV joint along with the rest of the drive axle separated from the wheel assembly and connected to the trans-axle. That's the cast aluminum looking thing into which the inner CV joint is mounted.

10.) Position a catch bucket for any tranny fluid that may leak out. Some people sat nothing should leak out. I didn't have anything to catch it and painted the garage floor with ~1 qrt of tranny fluid (not good). Using a slotted screwdriver slip the driver between the inner CV joint and the trans-axle, there's a ~3mm gap there. Tap it with a hammer to separate the CV joint. This shouldn't take too much effort. Be careful not the damage the oil seal on the trans-axle by "prying" the CV joint away. This is kinda hard to do anyways because there is very little room to get any kind of leverage.

11.) Slowly pull the inner CV joint away from the trans-axle. You way need to wiggle it a bit to assist in its removal.

12.) Get something to eat you're about 40% done with the job!

13.) Remove the boot clips with the pinch pliers. Cut the outer boot away to allow access to the CV joint knuckles. This is REALLY MESSY and you will need plenty of rags to clean the knuckles so you can see them.

14.) With the knuckles visible locate the circlip retaining ring. Use the retaining ring removal tool to spread the circlip apart. It should pry apart fairly easily if it does not you probably have to smack the drive axle out or into the center axle since they are binding the ring. Use a brass drift and hammer for this. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT HIT THE BALL BEARINGS OR THE CIRCULAR RETAINING COLLAR. MAKE SURE THE DRIFT ONLY HITS THE FLAT KNUCKLES. THE BRASS DRIFT IS SOFT AND WILL NOT MAR THE RACES. IF USING OTHER TOOLS, your mileage may vary.

15.) With the circlip spread wide open (~1cm), tap the outer CV jount away from the center axle.

16.) Once removed, you can also cut away the boot from the inner CV joint. That's REAL MESSY too.

17. Using plenty of solvent and a catch bucket make the CV joints immaculate. Make sure the ball bearings, races, and such, look smooth. If you see pitting, flat spots, and general damage, time for a new drive axle.

18.) I used compressed air to clean and dry the solvent from the joints. Watch for back spray on this (goggles are advisable)

19.) With the CV joint clean and dry its time to pack them with the grease from the boot repair kit.

20.) 70% done, get some chips and a beer!

21.) Slide the inner CV boot onto the axle along with the small boot clamp. Allow enough room to inject the grease into the joint. You are going to be putting ~1.5 tube (4.23oz) of grease into the inner joint. Put a little in, work the joint around. Make sure that this is packed SOLID with grease. Once filled with grease. Slide the boot over and secure the smaller and large boot retaining clamps. This is done with the pincher pliers.

22.) Slide the smaller outer boot clamp and then the boot itself onto the central drive axle. Place the circlip into the outer CV joint. Install the outer CV joint into the central drive axle. You will need to open the retaining clip with the special tool. Tap the CV joint onto the central drive axle with the drift and hammer.

23.) Again, fill the outer joint with grease and install the boot as you did with the inner boot.

24.) Take the drive axle back to the car. Install the inner CV joint into the trans-axle. It may help to wiggle it a bit to get it in there.

25.) Mix up some 2-part metal epoxy. Place it on the outer drive axle. Rotate the wheel assmebly and position the outer CV joint so that the drive axle slides into the wheel assembly. At this point I used the new 22mm drive nut to help pull the drive axle into the wheel assmebly.

26.) Swing the A-shaped control arm into place and tap the ball joint back into place. Its usefull to wiggle the wheel assembly a bit when first trying to get it in position. Once in, replace the bolt than secured the ball joint.

27.) Using your massive cheater bar and 36mm socket tighten the drive axle nut to the specifications in the manual (Hayes said 88ft-lbs + 60°). I didn't have a torque wrench that big so I totally guessed. That may be very stupid. You may see a post from me shortly to indicate this. I hope NOT though!

28.) Replace the the ABS sensor and brake line/ABS-sensor wheelwell mount.

29.) Remove catch bucket from under transaxle.

30.) Replace wheel. Lower car. Test drive. If you hear clicking knocking or crunthing, you did something wrong. I didn't do anyhthing wrong so I can't help you if you did, sorry!

31.) Clean up!

32.) You're done! Head to the fridge and find the 6-pack of your choice. You saved ~$300 and can consider yourself a stage 3 do-it-yourselfer, according to IPD!