Horsing around with the cables will fix it because it seems like you have a ground that isn't quite in contact that moving around makes the circuit complete. Whats nice is that your problem's gone until it gets re-jostled into trouble.. You have checked all your ground points in the dash right? You blew the one in your steering column and replaced that, how about the others? There's one by the drivers door, close to window height, there's one near the blower motor, and you might at well check the one by the parking brake. I'm hoping one of these is loose, but...



Now as to the Brake Light, I believe that's the only thing on that circuit for your car (fuse 12 if i'm not mistaken) so you should only really have to check those wires for any break in the insulation. The switch is actually on your pedal and there's 4 wires coming and going from it. Before you do anything more you should probably disconnect your battery, this circuits hot at all times... Anyway, My guess is going to be the Yellow wire coming off the switch, because when you press the pedal this gets current too. That wire's going to run all the way back to your trunk but there's no need to trace it beyond the front seat.. To inspect its probably easiest to run your fingers over that wire and feel for brakes, as well as a few inches either side of every wire that comes in close contact with it. You also have the red wire (this one's hot regardless of if you press the pedal or not, so be extra careful unless you've pulled fuse/battery) and do the same. The other two wires are for your Shift lock, they're green and blue/yellow and luckily are on a different fuse (28 i'm pretty sure) that didn't make a difference when you pulled it, so you don't have to check them...


One final check I'd like you to do, after you hook up battery but BEFORE you start the car, run a voltmeter across the terminals and make sure its constant voltage. If its dropping you've still got a short..