Hi,

I don't want to discourage you, but my experiences with rust free Volvos from hot and dry southern climates are that they are best left in the south or laid up from December to the end of March. Rust free cars from the cool blue north are getting to be rare as hen's teeth, but I would choose one any time over a desert car. Lap seams on places like door edges, rocker panels, floor panels and rear wheel wells have likely lost their seal. These, and any other places where paint or the tar based undercoating has cracked or dried out will experience dramatic effects when exposed to salt water as opposed to plain water. Salt water has low surface tension and creeps into every crevice like an oil would.

Expect problems with caliper seals or around any other rubber parts that have dried out, shrunk or cracked, as well as electrical connection issues.

There's a Brickboard member who has been maintaining a non galvanize 1984 240 in Montreal for many years. Montreal uses an insane amount of salt so it can be done. I think he'd agree that it takes a lot of work, constant inspection, and a thorough understanding of your car's construction.

I heartily agree with CB and Spook that lanolin based Fluid Film is your best bet. It penetrates vigorously into seams where other products wont, and it doesn't dry out. We live in a high salt area and have a winter dedicated, sacrificial 91 245 that gets a gallon of it every fall. It takes a full day with compressor and spray gun, and although I wouldn't call it pretty, it's still inspectable after 12 years and should see a few more. Without the Fluid Film it would be long gone.

In your case you have the advantage of planning your rust prevention before it has begun to appear. The disadvantage will be the expense and difficulty in finding someone who'll give it the care that usually only an owner will provide.

Good luck, Peter