If you don't what cam is in it, how do you what to set the tappets to?

With stock springs, the only cam to use is the K cam with low compression or K inlet - A3 Cosworth exhaust lobe (or similar) with high compression. There is no point to the old A, B, C or D cams. The K will beat the ancient A,B & C cams in every way, the D only beats the K above 5500 in an 1800cc (and flogs the stock valve train)

I harp on about using the K with stock springs because the marginally better D is too harsh on valve seats, if you have any kind of port work done on the head, the most important part of the port job is the valve seats. The D cam will flog the seats if you rev much past 5000rpm & risk dropping a valve. Once the valve seat needs a regrind, then you are forced to go to a bigger valve, which is not always a good thing. The K was developed in 1973ish for the 1974 K-Jet cars. The D was developed for the B18B Amazon Rally Pack WITH dual springs. Isky's duals have the same pressure as the stock single springs BUT the singles flail about and flog the valve train in 5500rpm zone. The stock spring goes to 8000rpm on the D, but do damage.

ROCKER ARMS: When you tighten down the four bolts, make sure the worn area in the foot aligns with where they were running on valve stems. Replace the nuts with some generic Gr8's + use slightly longer rocker shaft post bolts, Gr8 Hex or Allen heads & some HT washers.

Check your lobe lift, that will give you a decent clue to what cam you have, then you know what the tappets clearence to use.

Valve cover screws: Panel beat this area flat, then use a washer to spread the load better.